This has been a much requested post from the readership, so I’m happy to say that I’ve finally had time to post it! Last year, during my Sew Your Kibbe Challenge series, I did monthly wrap ups with pattern suggestions. This got to be feeling a bit much like overkill by the end of the year; some months it was really hard to find styles for each type whereas other months were overflowing with options. I think it makes a lot more sense to do this sort of round up seasonally; there are a lot more patterns to pick from and it’s a lot easier to find patterns might be the “best” for a certain Kibbe type. Since we are covering a larger timespan I am going to try to pick patterns for each “level” of dress, so when possible there’s a decent mix of casual, mid-level, and more formal options. I’m pulling options from my review posts for February 2020 Burda, McCall’s Early Spring, Spring Vogue, Burda Easy #1, March 2020 Burda, Burda Spring/Summer Catalog, Spring McCall’s, Spring Butterick, April 2020 Burda, Burda Easy #2, Spring New Look, and May 2020 Burda.
So, without further ado, here are my spring sewing suggestions:
Dramatic
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #111 – Tank Top
- New Look 6660 – Pants
- New Look 6650 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #103 – Jacket
- Butterick 6737 – Skirt
- Burda 6210 – Dress
- Vogue 1671 – Dress
- Vogue 1673 – Dress
- Burda 04/2020 #106 – Skirt
I think a lot of the patterns that have come out the past few months could work well for a lot of the Kibbe IDs, and I’m sure that you’ll see some of these images come back again in this post, but I think all of these styles would work particularly well for Dramatic types. There are a lot of long, straight, and angular design elements here, and plenty of options to go from casual to more formal looks.
Soft Dramatic
- Burda Easy #2, Style 5B – Pants
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #105 – Top
- Burda 6200 – Skirt
- Vogue 1683 – Skirt
- Vogue 1680 – Top
- Vogue 1684 – Skirt
- McCall’s 8043 – Top
- McCall’s 8007 – Dress
- Butterick 6739 – Suit
The Vogue release was full of awesome options for Soft Dramatics. There are a lot of exaggerated shapes that Soft Dramatics can carry off so well. There’s also some great options from the McCall’s releases for fancier occasions, whereas the Burda releases have some nice options for more casual wear.
Flamboyant Natural
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #122 – Cardigan
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #116 – Top
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #106 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #105 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #128 – Top
- Butterick 6735 – Top
- Simplicity 9099 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #115 – Blazer
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #109 – Dress
I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again – Burda is all about styles that suit a Flamboyant Natural. It’s all about unconstructed lines and easy fit here, and I think there have been a ton of releases that would suit this image ID in the past few months.
Natural
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #119 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #112 – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #128 – Top
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #118 – Dress
- Butterick 6736 – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #124 – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #105 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #101 – Dress
- Butterick 6728 – Dress
The styles I picked for Naturals would also overlap nicely into Flamboyant Natural or Soft Natural categories. Again, I felt like some of the best styles were coming from Burda, as opposed to the Big4/1. A lot of those styles are quite simple, but simplicity can allow the unconstructed lines to really showcase some lovely fabrics.
Soft Natural
- McCall’s 8099 – Pants
- Burda 6201 – Top
- Simplicity 9111 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #114 – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #117 – Top
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #120 – Jacket
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #101 – Top
- McCall’s 8047 – Jumpsuit
- New Look 6662 – Top/Pants
The Soft Natural picks come from a variety of brands, but with a slight emphasis towards Burda. I didn’t feel that there were a lot of great styles for Soft Naturals that have come out in the past few months, but I do think the options available are actually quite fantastic and would all work well together in a wardrobe.
Dramatic Classic
- New Look 6660 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #109 – Top
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #108 – Skirt
- Burda 6210 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #103 – Jacket
- Burda Easy #2 Style 3B – Skirt
- Burda 6236 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #124 – Jacket
- Vogue 1674 – Dress
A lot of the picks for Dramatics would also work well for Dramatic Classics. These styles all have those “Classic” lines, but with some added sharpness. I think this Image ID has had a nice mix of options the past few months, though they have been really spread out over the various releases. The March Burda would be a really great buy though!
Classic
- New Look 6651 – Dress
- Burda Easy #2 Style 1B – Jacket
- Butterick 6726 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #121 – Dress
- Butterick 6738 – Wardrobe
- Simplicity 9105 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #105 & 106 – Top & Skirt
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #103 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #121 – Dress
I feel like I maybe cheated a bit here, with so many vintage releases and styles that were inspired by vintage films. I think some of these styles might need slight alterations (the black dress could be a bit better for Classics with simple straps, for example), but if you enjoy dressing with a vintage nod, Spring was full of great pattern options. If you are looking for something more modern, the two Butterick Wardrobe patterns (6738 & 6740, not shown above) would be fantastic patterns to pick up because they have so many options. The Burda Easy jacket would also be an amazing option for a more modern, casual option.
Soft Classic
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #114 – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #103 – Top
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #104 – Jacket
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #104 – Top
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #107 – Dress
- McCall’s 8086 – Top
- McCall’s 8083 – Dress
- Butterick 6729 – Dress
- New Look 6655 – Dress
The Soft Classic ID was a bit more challenging to find options for. There are a lot (A LOT) of soft ruffly designs in the spring releases, but many of them are just too much. Kibbe says that a Soft Classic is a “Classic first” so I tried to find options that had elements of the softer looks we’ve seen this spring, but weren’t too over the top. I think there are a lot of great more casual options, but I had issues finding things that were more mid-level of dress.
Flamboyant Gamine
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #118 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #118 – Jacket
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #117 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #106 – Top
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #116 – Jacket
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #110 – Top
- McCall’s 8048 – Jacket
- Simplicity 9100 – Dress
- McCall’s 8049 – Jacket
One thing about Flamboyant Gamines is that they can really pull off those fun mixed up looks, and I think Burda really delivered some great options this year. The styling is also great inspiration for Flamboyant Gamines. The Big 4/1 didn’t have as many good choices, but I do think that McCall’s had some fun jacket options and the Simplicity dress could be really fun for this image ID.
Gamine
- Burda Easy #2 Style 6A – Sweater
- McCall’s 8045 – Pants
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #109 – Top
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #120 – Jacket
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #115 – Top
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #107 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #109 -Dress
- McCall’s 8034 – Dress
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #120 – Jacket
I think there are some real gems in the spring releases for Gamines. All of these have the structured, close fit that work well for Gamines, but also have that mix of soft and hard elements that is key to Gamine style. The Burda tops and dresses have especially great proportions that would look amazing in a Gamine outfit.
Soft Gamine
- BurdaStyle 04/2020 #112 – Shorts
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #102 – Skirt
- McCall’s 8097 – Skirt
- McCall’s 8094 – Top
- McCall’s 8096 – Top
- McCall’s 8040 – Top
- BurdaStyle 05/2020 #122 – Dress
- McCall’s 8089 – Dress
- McCall’s 8036 – Dress
I feel like last year it was difficult to find Soft Gamine options, but this year is the total opposite! The short, ruffly dresses would all be fantastic options, and we had so many new dress patterns this spring! The McCall’s line especially has released a lot of patterns that would be great for Soft Gamines, so that would be a great place to start if you are looking for some new sewing inspirations.
Theatrical Romantic
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #116 – Top
- McCall’s 8091 – Dress
- Burda Easy #2 Style 2C – Dress
- Burda Easy #2 Style 3C – Skirt
- BurdaStyle 02/2020 #101 – Jacket
- Simplicity 9097 – Dress
- Vogue 1674 – Dress
- Vogue 1675 – Dress
- McCall’s 8088 – Dress
I actually found it a bit difficult to find good options for Theatrical Romantics; everything is just a little too big, or too ruffly, or too relaxed in fit. While I picked a mix from all of the available pattern lines, I think the Vogue patterns would be especially great for Theatrical Romantics.
Romantic
- BurdaStyle 03/2020 #109 – Top
- Burda Easy #2 Style 5A – Pants
- Burda Easy #2 Style 2B – Top
- New Look 6656 – Top
- Vogue 1672 – Dress
- McCall’s 8086 – Top
- McCall’s 8036 – Dress
- McCall’s 8035 – Dress
- McCall’s 8087 – Dress
I think Romantics had slightly better options because they can venture a bit more into the ruffle fest that we were given by McCall’s. There were a lot of dress options, but not a ton of great choices for separates this spring. Still, I think there is enough choice that you can probably find something to keep you inspired!
And that’s it! Interestingly, I felt that last year I had the most difficulty finding options for the Gamine and Soft Gamine categories, but this spring I though those were some of the easiest IDs to find options for. There were also some patterns that I used multiple times (mostly simple tops and pencil skirts), and I think this really speaks to Kibbe’s statement that clothes don’t have image IDs and that the look really comes from the whole outfit. Still, I think that every Image ID had at least a few really great options that would be fun options to add to a Kibbe inspired wardrobe.
Doctor T Designs 
Thanks for making this fabulous roundup. I’ve been looking forward to your Kibbe post. You have a great eye. With all the extra work I’ve been doing schooling and taking care of kids 24/7 my stuff has been on the back burner. This gets me excited again. The Romantic/Soft Classic are closest to what looks good on me. I love the designs for Soft Dramatic/ Soft Natural but I just drown in those lines. I’ve enjoyed your other recent posts too. 😊
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Thanks! It’s been a long time coming but I’m glad I finally had time to finish this post! I’m not sure what will happen when summer rolls around; aside from Burda I’m not seeing a lot of releases happening from the Big 4/1 because some of them can’t ship right now. Will be interesting to see how things go…
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Fantastic roundup. I found your visuals much easier to use to assess my style – it’s Gamine. I like all the Gamines and would wear them – unlike any of the other categories. I have often wondered what is best for me.
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That was fun, thanks! Made me look at some of those in a new way.
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What a resource, and what a treat of a post! Thank you!
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Oh, I forgot how much I loved these posts! It’s so much fun to review all the patterns again. As usual you were spot on for the Classics – most of your picks were precisely the same ones that that appealed to me when they came out. I think it’s no coincidence that retro looks appeal to Classics – as current fashions go big and loose, or sharp and angular, or soft and ruffly, the Classic often needs to look back to older styles to find that understated, slightly tailored look.
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Wow, what a fabulous collection! I’ll be coming back to look at these several times. Love all the Dramatics and the Naturals. but love looking at them all – very inspiring. Your posts are keeping me to finish the Burda bomber jacket, and the very first pattern up top is next. Thank you for all this!
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Still unsure if I am a soft dramatic or not, but I am a 100% sure that my mother is flamboyant natural and burda just rocks that look in their plus section! When I get the time to sew at all, I want to make all the things for her 😊 even though my work is still open and here in Sweden life continues much more normal than in other countries all I want to wear is jersey dresses and big cardigans 😔
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I can feel that. Not gonna lie, I’ve been “going to work” in Doctor Who pj pants for 7 weeks.
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What a fantastic article! I was typed a few years ago and have gone back to sewing since. This is a brilliant resource for putting it into play in my sewing game. Thank you.
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Thank you so much! This is a lot of work for you and it definitely helps me. Quick question: it seems that many of the Gamine could also be Soft Classic, which is my body type (lifestyle, etc). What is the main difference between the two?
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Yes, these posts take a long time to get together, but I think they are fun and helpful to view patterns in a different way! Especially some where in a pattern release, it’s like, “who would wear that” but then in the context of a full wardrobe it makes a lot more sense. Anyway, to your point, yes, I think there are a lot of potential overlap for the designs I picked for Soft Classic and Gamine; the main difference is that Gamine can handle much sharper and more cropped or staccato lines than a Soft Classics can. So, for example, the tan jacket with the lace would probably work well for both image IDs, but the mini dress with the puffy sleeves would probably feel both too short and tight but also too overwhelming on a Soft Classic. A Gamine could handle that sort of cropped line and close fit, as well as the juxtaposition of the giant poofy sleeves with the very tailored body of the dress. If you need a refresher on the wording that Kibbe uses to describe the lines and the original recommendations, I suggest looking back to the main posts in the series: https://doctortdesigns.com/wardrobe-planning/sew-your-kibbe/
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Thanks, Doctor T! My whole style compass is out of focus (lol)…… your blog definitely helps me wade through all of the choices. I also like your comment about the merits of any one particular pattern versus the wisdom of adding it to one’s wardrobe. Ultimately, I want to sew my own new fresh “capsule ” collection and take it from there. Sometimes it’s hard for me to commit to one look but your blog definitely helps.
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I’m a Dramatic Classic and what have I bought lately? Vogue 1671! Thanks for the confirmation of my style choice!
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