Spring 2020 McCall’s Patterns

First off, HAPPY PI DAY!

Secondly, I am aware that we are living in interesting times and reviewing new sewing patterns is perhaps a bit trivial with COVID-19 high on everyone’s minds. However, if we are all quarantined at home, I can guarantee that my current “commuting time” is absolutely going to turn into “sewing time,” so if this is the thing that’s going to prevent us from going stir-crazy maybe it’s not so trivial to be looking at patterns after all. I know this looming crisis is impacting everyone differently – at my work I’ve been pulling extra hours and putting in a lot of effort to get everything ready for “remote delivery,” but for others it maybe be that they are simply unable to work for the foreseeable future. It may be good to focus on our sort of solitary hobbies for a while, and with social media and the internet, it can still very much feel like we have meaningful interactions regardless of the world’s crazy circumstances.

Now on to what I’m sure you are all really here for – a look at new sewing patterns. My apologies for not getting this up sooner; as I’ve said, my work has been totally nuts this week. Also, either the timing is a bit crazy or I haven’t been paying attention, but both Butterick and McCall’s have released their spring collections! Today I’m going to take a look at the McCall’s patterns, because I want to save the good stuff for later. (That’s right I said it – Butterick is taking the crown for spring releases this year.) While I think McCall’s has got a very spring-y vibe going on, I can’t say that I find any of these styles particularly innovative. Either way there’s a lot to look at, so let’s jump in:

M8083 – Gia. Ok, so I actually think this is a pretty cute dress and I feel like it is something my sister would love to wear, but I also feel like I have some nice options with similar features already in the stash. I do like the sleeve options here; I think you can get three different dresses quite easily using this one pattern. I also think this could be popular for people who like to history bound/vintage bound as it has that sort of a vibe, without looking like it came directly out of 1944.

M8084 – Livia. I feel like this is one of those styles that I’m just not feeling the line drawing, but is looking super cute on the model. There are a few fashion/sewing bloggers I expect to whip this one out, and I’m curious to see how their versions look. I feel like this could end up being one of those super popular patterns because it is hitting on a few trends with the big sleeves and the twisty knot front. It’s not something I’d want for me, but I’m excited to see it come out in the wider sewing sphere!

M8085 – Siella. This looks like a really comfortable dress if you really don’t like close fitting clothing. It has a very straight cut, and minimal details. To me it looks a bit dull, but I also think this sort of fits in with the 90s revival trend that’s happening right now – it very much reminds me of what I remember seeing people wear on TV shows as a kid.

M8086 – Marta. While I’m really tempted to say that this is “just a shirtdress” I think McCall’s has done some interesting things using the print fabric. The tunic length versions could also look super cute with leggings and boots if you live in a colder climate, and could easily transition to fall that way. I don’t think I need this pattern in the stash – I have a lot of shirt dress patterns – but I do think this could be a surprisingly versatile wardrobe piece that looks both comfortable and stylish.

M8087 – Aurora. Ok, so I don’t think a ruffly maxi dress is a super novel idea – I’m sure we’ve all got at least one in the stash. But I do think that as far as ruffly maxi dresses go, this one isn’t too bad. It has a very sweet, youthful vibe, as opposed to a home on the range western flare that we usually see in similar styles. I think the neckline and length options are nice features as well. I can’t say this is the most innovative pattern, but it is pretty cute.

M8088 – Giana. Again, not sure a wrap dress could be considered innovative at this point, but I do think that this style is cute. Not sure I’d enjoy wearing the bow on my back when sitting down, but this looks like it could be pretty easy to sew, which could be a nice feature for the design.

M8089 – Adrina. McCall’s is sure on a ruffle kick with this release. I can’t say I think this dress is something I’d wear – it’s really short and it is has a lot of volume going on. However, I do think the model looks adorable, and there are some people I think would look amazing in this type of dress. I think it’s a style that could be popular with the teen/young adult crowd, but I’m not sure it’s something we’ll see a lot on the… more established blog-o-sphere.

M8090 – Marina. Like I said, McCall’s has gone on a ruffle kick, and has generally gone with very relaxed silhouettes. I feel like most of the dresses in the release are iterations of these themes, so I’m sort of already bored, and we are only halfway. I can appreciate the neckline details here, but overall I’m not too excited.

M8091 – Noemi. This dress sort of breaks the silhouette and ruffle trends, but is does have a center front button placket, which McCall’s seems to be fixated on as well. It’s another style that could be fun if you like to dress with a vintage vibe, but not necessarily going full vintage. I like the neckline details and waist emphasis, and the pockets are a fun detail as well if you want a more casual look.

M8092 – Mariah. More ruffles and relaxed shapes. I think I said I was bored with M8090, but I retract that statement and redirect it here. This is a basic shift with some sleeve variations. I do like the ruching on the belt though – it sort of really makes the design.

M8093 – Pia. Short ruffle tops. Basically following the trend we saw with the dresses, but, as a top. We’ve seen similar in the past.

M8094 – Lola. Another fun pattern if you you are trying to get that vintage vibe. It’s another style that’s really not meant for me, but I really appreciate the detail of the slightly scalloped hem – it’s cute, and not something we normally see.

M8095 – Lucia. Ok, so we’ve seen a lot of wrap tops, cold shoulders, and ruffles in the past few years, but, since I like all of these things, I like this top. I can’t say I like the ties in the back, and I’m sure I’ve got similar patterns in the stash already. So I don’t think I need this pattern in particular, but I do appreciate the aesthetic.

M8096 – More ruffles and relaxed fits! I think the modern-day historical inspiration styles like these (I get a very vaguely Victorian-ish vibe here – please don’t come for me people who know actual history) are going to be quite popular in the coming months. I think the lace detail is quite pretty, and I think this is a style that I could see some people totally rocking. I’m not one of those people, but, I’m not going to knock anyone who likes this. It at least has some interesting details.

M8097 – Oria. Elastic waisted ruffle skirt. I think none of us need to buy this pattern, as I’m sure we all have something similar, but it is pretty cute and it comes in a lot of length variations, so I could understand getting it for the ease of sewing and variety of styles.

M8098 – Simone. They’ve found a way to add ruffles to pants! There is a part of me that wants to own all of the wide legged trouser patterns ever, and there is a part of me that knows I would never wear this. I think the second part is winning out, but I have to admire McCall’s ability to stick to a theme!

M8099 – Lina. Ok now – these pants I want. I am obsessed (OBSESSED!) with the satin teal pants on the model. Maybe because they are teal, but I love them! I’m all about the elastic waists right now (ok, not really, but they are comfy to wear and easy to sew), and I really like the juxtaposition of cargo pants in a satin material. Really, I’m not sure why I’m so into this pattern, but I am.

M8100 – Omelia. Ok, so these pants are pretty similar to the previous pattern, yet, I’m just not into it here. It’s looks cheap? Maybe it is the matching top. Or the slightly less voluminous leg? It just looks a bit too small and awkwardly fitted.

M8101 – Natala. This jumpsuit is super cute and it comes in the McCall’s extended plus sizes! I love the super fitted and detailed bodice and the more relaxed wider leg. It follows the vintage-inspired trend, and I think it looks so sharp on the model! Love it!

M8092 – Loretta. More ruffles and Victorian-ish (maybe more Edwardian-ish here?) inspirations. The skirt is sort of whatever, but I think the blouse could be cute, especially for those who can rock the cropped length. Pretty sure I’ve got some similar Burda patterns in the stash though…

And that’s it! Overall I think there are some cute designs in this release, but not a whole lot that is meant for me. The major trends seem to be relaxed fit, ruffles, or very fitted but vintage inspired looks. Of course the one pattern I’m obsessed with doesn’t really fit any of these trends, but that sounds about right for me. What do you all think? Are you looking forward to a spring of frothy styles full of ruffles and lace? Or is the aesthetic far too sweet and cutesy for your taste? Feel free to discuss it all in the comments, and be sure to check back tomorrow when we take a look at the new patterns from Butterick!

26 thoughts on “Spring 2020 McCall’s Patterns

  1. The two patterns that appeal to me are the shirtdress 8086 and the wrap top 8095 but I have enough of those styles already. I do kind of like that they really stuck to a theme on this one – it seems like a real collection because of the similarities. These all look cute and spring-y and I would have sewn and worn almost all of the ruffles (not those ruffle pants! 😝) during the mid-70s Laura Ashley fever, but I am not that person anymore.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. That shirt dress, 8086, needs either a bit of centre back gathering, or a centred pleat for wearability. Agree with you, altogether too many ruffles for my liking.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Also, when there is so much ugliness surrounding us, we absolutely need to make something beautiful to serve as a counter balance. We need it to survive and not fall into all the panic and craziness we’re seeing everywhere. I think creating beauty is even more important in times like this.

    Liked by 2 people

  4. Definite pass on this one for me. Too 1990s and way too many ruffles. I do like the teal satin cargo trousers but I’ve got practically the same pattern in a Burda from a few years ago.

    I’m kind of puzzled as to why pattern designers go so completely all in on a particular theme in some collections; you’d think part of the appeal of home sewing is that when you can’t find things you like in the shops you can at least sew something different. I suppose there is always the back catalogue.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. It’s all ruffles, and I have been completely off ruffles after making bridesmaid dresses for a friend shortly after the Princess Di/Prince Charles wedding – and those bridesmaid dresses had ruffles on ruffles on gathers – puffed sleeves gathered into elbow bands with ruffles below the bands.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. OMG no. McCalls really lost me with this collection. Is is really necessary to vomit ruffles all over everything?

    Like you, I like the teal pants and may hand over $ for that one. Other than that, no no no. I genuinely hate this release.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I’m intrigued by 8083, 8094, and 8101….but honestly, I don’t think I’ll be picking up anything from this release. Excited to see what you have to say about Butterick tomorrow!

    I think that both releases came out on the same day, actually. I wonder if they’re starting to behave more like a single company now?

    Liked by 1 person

  8. “…I have to admire McCall’s ability to stick to a theme!”
    This line killed me. LOL
    I think all of these patterns are very sweet. 8092 (Mariah) is the only one I really can’t abide. I do agree so many ruffles and none of these are for me, but they are sweet.


  9. I’m into the ruffles and the relaxed fit, although I don’t think I need any of these, except possibly the shorts version of the cargo pants. Still, I like this release over all. I’m so glad you posted. I think it’s good for everyone to have something fun and exciting to think about. Thank you!!!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. I love ruffles and I love SLEEVES and I don’t know about this collection. I like 8091 and 8092 and will probably grab them. I like the tech drawing for 8088 but the cover dress looks matronly.

    Meh. I liked the Butterick collection so much more!

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Wondering which age group they are targeting?
    I can picture most of these flouncy or lace or small ruffle patterns for the beach, lite weight gauzie fabric….feminine…
    Pant jumpsuit is do-able….for me



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