I’ve been feeling particularly scattered when it comes to sewing plans, goals, and output this year. I feel like once the spring Bra Fit Clinic ended, I’ve not had a lot of energy to focus on sewing or upcoming projects, and blog posting has been similarly unfocused (or just non-existent). I thought it might be good to test out a bunch of patterns just to get the “I wonder if…” out of my system and to get my actual and mental to-sew list down in size a bit. I also decided that rather than trying to keep up with a lot of different posts and reviews, for these mini-projects I would try to collect a bunch of smaller reviews into fewer posts (I know; I never really got the memo on smaller but more content). I haven’t been feeling like I’ve had enough time or energy to really focus on fitting complex new patterns, so instead I decided to make up all of my underwear patterns and do a massive comparison across patterns and brands. Some of these patterns I’ve reviewed perviously, but I’m hoping that these collected posts might be helpful to anyone who might looking for this information in the future.
For the first post in this Rapid Undie Review series, I decided to focus on the Emerald Erin patterns. Emerald Erin has a lot of different underwear styles, and has been really popular in the sewing community for years. I’ve made the Friday French Cuts several times in the past, but here I wanted to review all four of the current underwear patterns from this brand. For most of these patterns, Emerald Erin has sizes from XS-3XL, but the Tuesday Boyshort uses numerical sizing. I found the sizing to be fairly consistent between patterns, so once you find a good starting size you should be able to use that for any other styles you want to try. The instructions are also some of the best for these patterns, and I learned a bunch of different finishing techniques by trying all of the different styles.
Tuesday Boyshort
The Tuesday Boyshort is a boyshort pattern with two options for the front; a traditional center front seam and a seamless front.
Pattern Description: Boyshort pattern with two styles; one with a center front seam and one with a seamless front. From the designer: “The Tuesday Boyshort is a medium-rise boyshort. With two options, the classic short with a center front and center back seam, and a modified version with a solid front, this is a very versatile and comfortable panty option.”
Pattern Sizing: 0-18; Hip sizes 35-47”. Emerald Erin’s other underwear patterns use a XS-3XL size range, and I typically use the XL, but here I measure slightly more than the size 18, so I started there. I am using fairly stretch fabric and the circumference is fine, but the vertical rise is a bit short in the back, and I find the leg elastics a bit tight. However, with some minor adjustments it should fit, but I’d have to do some grading if I needed to go larger. I have also made this pattern in a size 12 for my sister and it fit her perfectly. In generally, she fits really easily into the Emerald Erin sizing and proportions, whereas I usually have to make at least a few pattern alterations for fit. In both cases I made the seamless front version just because I liked the look of it better. I think this pattern is not as size inclusive as Emerald Erin’s other patterns, and there are other Boyshort patterns such as the B,Wear Elsie that might be better options if you don’t fall into this size range.
Were the instructions easy to follow? The Emerald Erin instructions are always fantastic. I’ve really come to appreciate that the elastic lengths are included in the pattern as well because I’ve gotten quite lazy about mathing out how much elastic should be used on the waist.
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes, I think it looks like the line drawing.
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I really like the options for the seamless front or the more traditional center front/center back seam. I also like the way this looks when it’s done; it’s a very minimal design and feels like the design is more ready-to-wear-ish than other patterns I’ve tried. I also really like that this pattern has a separate gusset piece because I’ve found that the attached gussets aren’t as comfortable, and the Emerald Erin instructions are always great. The downsides on this pattern are that the size range is a bit smaller than some of the other underwear patterns, and it feels a bit short in the rise on me, but it was perfect for my sister who is more petite.
Fabric used: I used a bamboo jersey and cotton lining with fold over elastic.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: I was testing this pattern for fit, so I made both my sister’s version and my version as drafted. I am going to change my pattern to add a little over an inch to the center back seam for more coverage, but my sister’s pattern fit without alteration.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I may sew this again, though I don’t think it’s going to be my go-to pattern for myself. I have been testing out a lot of patterns and I have found others I am enjoying more, though I do like the streamlined fit and look of this pattern. I would highly recommend it if you fall into the size range; it’s a great pattern with very good instructions. If you are outside of the size range there are other patterns that go larger though, so it might be worth looking at those first if you think you will need to grade up.
Conclusion: I have been doing a lot of fit testing of my underwear patterns, not so much to find “the one” but just to see how differences in drafting and instructions can result in different shapes, silhouettes, and styles. I really appreciate the style of the Emerald Erin patterns; they all have a distinctly youthful fashion appeal and are thoughtfully designed. Although I am finding an easier time fitting myself into patterns from other brands, I do think I will revisit this pattern in the future because I like the very sleek style lines.
Wednesday Cheekies
The Wednesday Cheekies are a cheeky or Brazillian style underwear pattern, with an option for an all-lace version and a non-lace version with lace elastic trim. I’ve made both versions to fully test this pattern, and I have come to appreciate some of the unique construction techniques it uses.
Pattern Description: Cheeky underwear pattern with an option for lace elastic trim or construction from wide stretch lace. From the designer: “Introducing your new everyday favourites- the Wednesday Cheekies. The Wednesday Cheekies include two view options: A. a super comfy stretch knit with stretch lace trim finish, and B. a stunning all-stretch-lace. Both options are mid-low rise, have a shaped back and the perfect amount of cheekiness!” I made one of each version.
Pattern Sizing: Pattern sizes XS-3XL, which is a 34-59” hip. I made a size XL. I am technically between the XL and 1XL sizes, but I find that with Emerald Erin patterns the proportions work best if I size down. I also made this pattern for my sister in a size M a few months ago. I found the drafting and fit to be good in both size ranges.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I think the instructions are excellent for this pattern, and the illustrations are great. It is especially helpful because the construction order is a bit different than other underwear patterns.
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes! I think this patterns looks very much like the illustrations and other samples that are available on the website.
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I think the design is really cute; I love the way the elastic lace trim looks on View A, and the all lace View B is very elegant. I also like that the fit on these feels snug and secure, despite the cheekie cut and lack of elastic in the gusset. They also have an extremely minimal profile under clothes, so if that is of concern this is also a great pattern for that. My only real dislike is that the inside of the gusset can’t really be cleanly finished very easily because of the order of construction, but it doesn’t really impact the wearing or comfort, just more of a mental annoyance since I have so many other patterns that are a clean finish on the inside.
Fabric used: For View A I used a bamboo jersey and lace elastic trim, and for View B I used stretch lace and fold over elastic, both with a bit of cotton jersey for the gusset lining.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: I made the pattern as drafted with no alterations or changes.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend it to others? I will be honest that this isn’t my favorite style of underwear, but the View A in the bamboo is actually more comfortable than I expected, and I really like the use of lace elastic trim to finish off the leg openings. I want to try the construction techniques from this pattern on other patterns because it’s actually pretty comfortable, just not as much coverage as I tend to prefer. The all lace option is also really pretty, but not as practical for active wear as some other patterns. So, I will probably make this again, but it also probably won’t be my first choice of pattern. I would recommend this to others though, especially if you want a cheeky cut or like the all lace option or want something that’s going to have a very low profile under clothing.
Conclusion: Overall it is a great pattern and I am surprised that I like it as much as I do, though this will likely not become a personal favorite pattern simply due to it not being my preferred style of undergarment. I do really like the use of stretch lace trim and I want to use that style and finishing technique more on other patterns, and I do think the all lace version is really pretty. I’m not sure how often I will pull this out, but I’m glad I have it in my stack of options and I do want to try applying some of the techniques to my other patterns that have a bit more coverage to see if I can get a best of both worlds mash-up.
Thursday Thong
The Thursday Thong is probably one of quickest underwear patterns on the market. It’s a fairly uncomplicated thong pattern with an elastic lace waistband.
Pattern Description: Thong with elastic lace waistband and elastic trim. From the designer: “The Thursday Thong is an everyday wardrobe staple. With a flattering ‘V’ shape waistband and soft lace finishes, they are perfect for a comfortable and invisible fit under tight jeans and leggings. These are the ideal quick-sew project to make for yourself and your friends.”
Pattern Sizing: XS-3XL, hip sizes 34-59”. I made a size XL, as I am on the size cusp between XL and 1XL, but I find sizing down typically works better for me in the Emerald Erin patterns. However, for this particular pattern it might have been better if I’d gone with the larger (1XL) size.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow. All of the Emerald Erin patterns have fantastic instructions.
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes – it looks a lot like the drawing and reference images on the website.
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? This pattern is great if you want to find a way to use up every last scrap of fabric. The pattern uses barely any fabric, and if you add a front gusset seam you can really use this project as a scrap buster. I also really like that this pattern puts the leg elastic on the outside of the pattern, because I think this can help with the comfort factor. However, I will say that compared to some of the other thong patterns I have been testing, this one has the least coverage, which potentially could be useful if you want a very minimal coverage style of underwear, but practically speaking I think I prefer the coverage and fit of some of the other patterns such as the Friday French Cut.
Fabric used: Leftover scraps of a brushed poly spandex, cotton jersey for the lining, and elastics.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: Made as drafted with no changes.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend it to others? If I’m being honest, I don’t think I will make this pattern again. It’s not really my favorite style of underwear, and even if I did want to go for this style I have found a few other patterns I like better. If I did make it again, I would try making the next size up, because this pattern seems to have a very low rise. I would recommend this pattern to others though, especially if they are looking for a very minimal coverage style or want a pattern that can be used with very small scraps of fabric.
Conclusion: I went through a bit of a “I’m just going to test it out” phase with a lot of my un-made underwear patterns, including all the thong patterns I’ve bought out of curiosity but never made before. Of all of the patterns I tested (Emerald Erin Thursday Thong, Emerald Erin Friday French Cuts, and the B,Wear Alma Thong), the Thursday Thong is definitely the least coverage and sits the lowest on the hips. I think I prefer the higher rise of the Friday French Cuts and the Alma, but if you really want extremely minimal coverage, this is the pattern to go with. On the upside, it doesn’t use a lot of fabric, but as with most undergarment choices, comfort level will be very personal. I would classify the Friday French Cuts as the sort of middle of the road option in terms of coverage, and the Alma Thong is actually pretty full coverage, you know, for a thong, so hopefully that will be a helpful part of this review. Overall I have to say that this is not my typical or preferred style of underwear, and even of the patterns in this style that I did test, the Thursday Thong was my least favorite, so I don’t expect to be making a lot more of these. Overall though I am happy I tested out the pattern, especially since it really only used leftover scrap materials and I was able to get the curiosity out of my system.
Friday French Cuts
The Friday French Cuts are my most-made Emerald Erin pattern to date. I really appreciate the option to create a matching set of undergarments with rigid lace, and there aren’t many other patterns that allow for that without some cleaver cutting or fussy appliqué work. I also appreciate that this pattern has options for a thong or fuller coverage back, and options for different elastic finishes as well.
Review originally posted here: Adventures in Bra Sewing: Friday French Cuts Pattern Review. I am re-posting the original review here for convenience.
Pattern Description: High cut underwear pattern designed to be used with non-stretch lace materials. It comes with 4 variations – 2 different front views, and a thong or full coverage back view. I made View B (mirrored front and full coverage back), but I changed the pattern to be used with fold over elastic (like View D). From the designer: “Designed to be made with non-stretch embroidered lace or fabric in the front, these are the perfect panty to make a matching set with your non-stretch bra. All views feature a high-cut leg and flattering ‘V’ front. View options include; lace or non-stretch fabric front, with thong or full coverage options in stretch fabric for the back. These make for the ideal sexy-but-comfy fit for your next lingerie set.”
Pattern Sizing: Pattern comes in a single packet of XS-3XL. I used my hip to select the size and I was right on the line between XL and 1XL. I tried the 1XL first with a mockup and it was much too big. I went back and started over with the XL, and it fixed a majority of my fit problems. So I guess I would say, when in doubt size down.
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are very clear. I sort of looked them over and then went off and did some different finishing techniques because I had an idea to get a neater finish on the inside of the waistband (by feeding my fold over elastic behind the embellished fabric edge) and it worked for me, so I’m really happy!
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes, it looks exactly like the drawing!
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I think this is a really sleek looking underwear pattern, and I really like that it can be used with non-stretch lace to get perfectly matching bra and underwear sets. I also like that the pattern has an option for more or less coverage in the back, and that it has different elastic finishing and front options to be used with common fabrics that are available for making undergarments. The instructions are also very good. Possibly my only negative is that I like a bit more coverage than even the “full” coverage provides, so that will be a pattern alteration I need to make for the future.
Fabric used: I used embroidered tulle and sheer cup lining for the front, rayon jersey for the back, and a cotton lining for the gusset, with fold over elastic to finish the edges.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: After sizing down to the XL, the only fit change I made was to remove about 1” of width from the front gusset attachment seam (1/2” each side). I considered altering for more coverage on the back, but decided to see how the fit was with just the necessary change to the front of the pattern first before making more drastic alterations. I think there is just enough coverage with the pattern as-is, but I definitely want to widen the back coverage a bit more for future versions. It will probably be a less sleek look, but I’m willing to make the trade off for the comfort, especially since the front is really where all of the design features are anyway.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I think once I made modifications to the pattern I will definitely be sewing this again. I really like the fit on the front and that it can be used with non-stretch materials. I would definitely recommend this pattern to others, but you may need to re-shape the gusset piece a bit depending on your body proportions.
Conclusion: Overall I think this is a great pattern! It’s get a very unique look and adds versatility to the underwear pattern collection!
Conclusions
After trying all of these patterns, I think my favorite style is surprisingly the Tuesday Boyshort (even though I need to make some alterations for it to fit me better), and my least favorite is the Thursday Thong. I need to give a shoutout to the other patterns though – I did appreciate the ability to use rigid lace in the Friday French Cut and the interesting leg finishing for the Wednesday Cheekies. To be fair, I’ve not typically sewn a lot of thongs, but I find that the Thursday has a lower rise than the other Emerald Erin patterns, and there aren’t as many style options for this pattern as there are with the Wednesday Cheekies or the Friday French Cuts. I find that between the thong options, I prefer the Friday pattern because there’s a lot more variety in terms of elastic choices, coverage, and if the front can be used with a scalloped lace or just a non-stretch material. I appreciate the Wednesday Cheekies more than I expected, mostly because the lace trim is a really nice finish, and the all-lace version is pretty, even if I don’t find that pattern to be entirely practical for a very active day. I made a lot of these patterns for my sister as well as for myself, so I tested sizes at somewhat opposite ends of the range. My personal opinion is that the Emerald Erin patterns are really great if you are more petite; for my sister we didn’t need to adjust the rise, and the overall fit was fantastic straight away. For me, I found that the patterns tended to be a bit on the short side; they do fit, but I typically need to add a fair amount of vertical length where there are fit issues, as opposed to other brands where I am more often lowering the front rise. I don’t think that these will be my TNT go-to patterns because I’ve found others that I prefer in all of my testing, but I really appreciate the consistency of the patterns, the quality of the instructions, and especially that the measurements for the elastics are provided (yes, somehow I’ve become that person). If someone was completely new to sewing underwear and was on the smaller end of the size range, this brand is probably where I would tell them to start because of the instructions and the design options. I definitely want to try using some of these design ideas and finishing techniques in the future, but probably with other patterns that fit me a bit better as a base. Overall the Emerald Erin patterns are fantastic, but I am either above or right around the top end of their size range on several of their patterns, so if you are looking for options you should factor that in when searching for patterns. On the flip side, if you are more petite and fall into their size range, I think you will love all of the patterns from this brand because they are very high quality.
