Doctor T Designs

Even though I really don’t go for skimpy undergarments, there were just too many pretty Friday French Cuts popping up as promotional materials for the Bra Bee class that I couldn’t resist. Plus, I didn’t have any undergarment patterns drafted specifically for non-stretch materials, so I thought it would be interesting to test out (and study) the pattern.

The Emerald Erin Friday French Cuts are probably one of the more popular undergarment patterns I’ve seen on the internet, and there are lots of cute versions. The pattern comes with some different options for the front and the back:

For my first version, I wanted to try and figure out my size and then make a test version to go with my ill-fated Aries Bra, since I had so much of the embroidered tulle. I was right between the XL and 1XL, so I tried the 1XL, which had a lot of fit problems, then sized down to XL, which fixed a lot of things. I only ended up narrowing the front gusset by 1″ and left the rest of the pattern as-is for my first version.

This pattern goes together super easily, and it’s a very quick sew. And it’s super cute!

The only place I didn’t follow the pattern instructions was finishing off the waistband behind the lacy scalloped edge. I really wanted to use fold over elastic everywhere, but also have everything enclosed. So I cut a small snip in the embroidery to feed the elastic behind it, then stitched it around the top of the lining, with the outer fancy fabric also stitched as part of this sandwich. It honestly gave a super neat finish on the inside and provides a protective layer between the itchy embellished edging and the skin, I really couldn’t be happier with the finishing on this garment.

The one thing I was concerned about with this pattern was the coverage, so I wanted to give it a full wear test before reviewing it. I think that the version with the fuller back (Views B and D) has juuuuuuuuuuuuust enough coverage to make the pattern wearable, but probably not enough that I think it would be comfortable to wear on the daily without going insane. The fit on the front, however, is perfection. So I think I need to figure out if I can increase the width on the back of the pattern without changing the look on the front, because that would really be the best of both worlds in terms of fit and style.

Although I was really excited to have this as a matching set with the Aries Bra, that pattern didn’t really work out for me – yet. I am determined to get this style to work for me…. somehow. However, I’m really happy to report that this looks fabulous with my latest Sahaara Bra, which I made during the beginner sew along portion of this year’s Bra Bee. I think it’s my fanciest combo yet, and even though I’d like to work on some pattern modifications for the Friday French Cuts, overall I really couldn’t be more pleased with how everything turned out.

Official Pattern Review

Pattern Description: High cut underwear pattern designed to be used with non-stretch lace materials. It comes with 4 variations – 2 different front views, and a thong or full coverage back view. I made View B (mirrored front and full coverage back), but I changed the pattern to be used with fold over elastic (like View D). From the designer: “Designed to be made with non-stretch embroidered lace or fabric in the front, these are the perfect panty to make a matching set with your non-stretch bra. All views feature a high-cut leg and flattering ‘V’ front. View options include; lace or non-stretch fabric front, with thong or full coverage options in stretch fabric for the back. These make for the ideal sexy-but-comfy fit for your next lingerie set.”

Pattern Sizing: Pattern comes in a single packet of XS-3XL. I used my hip to select the size and I was right on the line between XL and 1XL. I tried the 1XL first with a mockup and it was much too big. I went back and started over with the XL, and it fixed a majority of my fit problems. So I guess I would say, when in doubt size down.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions are very clear. I sort of looked them over and then went off and did some different finishing techniques because I had an idea to get a neater finish on the inside of the waistband (by feeding my fold over elastic behind the embellished fabric edge) and it worked for me, so I’m really happy!

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes, it looks exactly like the drawing!

What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?  I think this is a really sleek looking underwear pattern, and I really like that it can be used with non-stretch lace to get perfectly matching bra and underwear sets. I also like that the pattern has an option for more or less coverage in the back, and that it has different elastic finishing and front options to be used with common fabrics that are available for making undergarments. The instructions are also very good. Possibly my only negative is that I like a bit more coverage than even the “full” coverage provides, so that will be a pattern alteration I need to make for the future.

Fabric used: I used embroidered tulle and sheer cup lining for the front, rayon jersey for the back, and a cotton lining for the gusset, with fold over elastic to finish the edges.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  After sizing down to the XL, the only fit change I made was to remove about 1” of width from the front gusset attachment seam (1/2” each side). I considered altering for more coverage on the back, but decided to see how the fit was with just the necessary change to the front of the pattern first before making more drastic alterations. I think there is just enough coverage with the pattern as-is, but I definitely want to widen the back coverage a bit more for future versions. It will probably be a less sleek look, but I’m willing to make the trade off for the comfort, especially since the front is really where all of the design features are anyway.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I think once I made modifications to the pattern I will definitely be sewing this again. I really like the fit on the front and that it can be used with non-stretch materials. I would definitely recommend this pattern to others, but you may need to re-shape the gusset piece a bit depending on your body proportions.

Conclusion:  Overall I think this is a great pattern! It’s get a very unique look and adds versatility to the underwear pattern collection!

Is this garment a “Triumph of Individual Style”? I think I need to work on the fit a bit more to make it a true “triumph”, but this is definitely the most stylish piece of underwear I own, so I’ll consider it a win!

I’ve had a lot of fun making fancier undergarments, but next I’m heading back to the world of fitting. I’ve got the Josey and Lusamine patterns ready to test, and I plan to be using them during the rest of the Bra Bee to work on fitting bands and test some alternative wire sizes. I’m also pretty busy the rest of the month with work and some upcoming travel, so I don’t know when I’ll be actually sewing or posting about any of it, but I’m still hopeful that I’ll be able to work on some more sewing things soon!