My foray into the Make Bra patterns continues. Unlike the DL02, which was a more “standard” bra pattern, the Sew Comfy Bra was on my list as an oddity to test. The construction is unique and the materials are fairly different to most other underwire bra patterns. I wasn’t expecting too much success from this experiment because of the stretch cups; the stretchy bralette patterns I have made are comfortable for lazing about the house, but super supportive, they are not. However, I’m probably as shocked as anyone to report that I have already made not one but two Sew Comfy Bras, and I definitely want to make even more soon.
The Make Bra Sew Comfy Bra (which, at the time of writing, does not seem to be linking correctly – so here’s a link to all of the Make Bra patterns in case it is broken in the future) is probably intended to be the “beginner” bra pattern from the Make Bra lineup. It’s a simple two-piece cup, made entirely with stretch materials, a wide elastic bottom band, and fold over elastic for the upper edges. This pattern also has very extensive instructions, and (at the time of writing) all of the sizes are included in the same packet. The stretchy cups also make it very forgiving to fit, which is not true with most of the more traditional bra patterns.
I was originally a bit dubious that this pattern would work for me; I know the cups are designed for negative ease so that the stretch creates the shaping and support, but compared to the pattern pieces for the DL02, this bra looks tiny. However, I did the only think you really can do to test bra patterns, which is sew them up and wear them around.
For my prototype, the outer cup felt a bit gappy under the arm, so for my first version I decided to take out a dart at the underarm (spoiler alert: I ultimately ended up not needing the dart, so I went back to the original pattern after the first version). I also decided I wanted to cut into one of my fun cotton prints, so my first version was a cotton jersey lined with powernet. The cotton is an Art Gallery print from Cali Fabrics; this particular print is sold out but they have others (though if there is a print you like you should grab it; when they get this brand in a lot of the prints tend to sell out quickly). (Another aside: I’m not sponsored in any way; I just spend too much money there because I like their fabrics.) I dug through stash to find coordinating elastics and notions; I also tested out the new Wawak fold over elastic. Honestly, it’s pretty great. I am excited to have a reliable place to find wide fold over elastics, even if I have to order the fun colors in stupid (2yd) quantities. I paired this version with the Make Bra Hip Huggers for the bottom.
After making the first version, I un-adjusted the pattern, and made a second version with more elastic tension, which has been better. It’s also been crazy hot here, so I was desirous of something that was going to be super thin and lightweight, so I have scandalously made the second version entirely out of powernet (specifically, this aqua powernet from Spandex World). It’s incredibly light and thin, which was precisely the goal for this project, and the fit is really good, so I’m calling it a win. The bottoms here are based on my self-drafted pattern; I made these to go with an upcoming project, but this bra will go with another pair I made earlier this year to match my Aphrodite bralette.
I also really need to show what the guts of the Sew Comfy Bra looks like, because it is very unlike any other bras I’ve sewn. The wide band elastic rolls up into the cups, which was another reason I thought this pattern might not succeed. However, this is honestly brilliant design. Because the elastic is rolled into position, it can’t twist in a channel the way I had issues with the Ulla Sports bra. I used a plushy waistband elastic, so it is super comfortable, and because it rests over the underwires, you can barely feel them, yet they still provide the structural integrity to keep everything in place. Also because the cups stretch, there isn’t much issue with the neckline cutting in or the cups sitting weird; everything just snuggly fits into place.
To say I’m mildly obsessed with this pattern is a bit of an understatement. It sits perfectly in the crossroad between bralette and underwire bra, it’s quick and easy to sew, and it really is so comfy. I think I need one in every color; it’s definitely on it’s way to becoming a go-to pattern for me.
Official Pattern Review
Pattern Description: A two-piece cup underwire bra designed for use with stretch fabrics. From the designer: “The Sew Comfy Bra is a full coverage style underwire bra, engineered to be smoothing and natural. The cup’s design brings out a beautiful, round and forward-facing shape. This bra is designed for fabric with good stretch like Lycra or Spandex. When using fabric with these properties, you’ll get the most comfortable bra without compromising on support.”
Pattern Sizing: This pattern comes in 65/26C – 110/44D, which I believe is the largest size range for a single bra pattern from Make Bra. I made the 90F, which is my typical size for Make Bra patterns and is about the middle of the size range.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I have made several Make Bra patterns at this point and this pattern has by far the most detailed and best instructions of any of the patterns I have tried. They were very clear with large diagrams, which is not the case for most of the other patterns from this brand. There are also some really helpful videos on YouTube for this pattern, including showing how to construct the bottom band elastic. The construction is a bit unusual but it does result in a very comfy bra.
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes, I think it looks a lot like the line drawing.
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I wasn’t sure if this pattern was going to work because the stretch cups look very small and I wasn’t sure how much support they would give, and I was dubious about the bottom band because the elastic sits inside the cups. However, I have to admit that this is a very comfortable bra. The elastic sitting over the wires makes them really comfortable by adding padding, but still allows the wires to structurally give support to the cups. I also think the shape of the cups is really nice, and overall this pattern goes together really quickly. Despite my initial apprehension I think this might become a favorite pattern for me. I don’t have any real dislikes, but I will say that this bra has a very open neckline, so that could be a potential downside if you like a bit more coverage, and it’s definitely not going to have the same projection or lift as a bra made with firmer cup materials if you are specifically looking for that. This pattern also uses a lot of powernet if you use that as a base layer for the band and the cups, which I would recommend it if you are in the larger sizes for the added stability. You will need to find somewhere to buy powernet by the yard and not reply on most bra kits because I don’t know of any that come with materials to use with stretch cups like this pattern. I wouldn’t really say that is a negative (in a lot of ways it is a positive because the supply list is much shorter), but it is important to know that this pattern won’t really work with the more “traditional” bra making materials because it needs a stretch cup to fit correctly. This also means that the stretch percentage of the materials is increasingly important in re-making this pattern. I think using a medium weight powernet to line everything will be important in making additional versions because you need something with good recovery for the cups (otherwise they will completely stretch out of shape) but also something with a relatively predictable stretch percentage so that the overall stretch and fit will remain consistent.
Fabric used: I used a powernet covered with cotton jersey for the main fabrics, with a wide plush elastic for the bottom band, fold over elastic for the top edges, and the normal strap elastic and findings to finish off the bra. For a second version I made everything in power net without any additional fashion fabric on top.
Pattern alterations or design changes you made: I made a fit sample for this pattern and there was a little bit of excess fabric under the arm, so I took a dart out from the underarm on the outer cup piece, and I shortened the back band by about 1/4”. I also changed the order of construction a bit to use some of my preferred finishing techniques on the channeling and I used all fold over elastic on the upper edge for the styling, and I changed the elastic for the bottom band from 1.25” to 1.5” just so I could use elastic I had on hand. After making the cotton jersey version I decided the side cup dart took out too much fabric, so I went back to the original pattern piece for my second version, but decided to just pull the underarm elastic tighter, which worked better. I also plan to slightly narrow the bridge width for the next version of this pattern. Otherwise it is made as drafted.
Would you sew this again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will definitely make more versions of this pattern! I think this could be my new go-to pattern for work at home or casual everyday bras, which is what I need the most of for my typical day. I really like that it is a wired bra but it feels like a bralette but with a bit more support, and the stretch materials (especially the single layer of powernet) make it feel very lightweight and breathable, which is nice because it has been so hot lately. I also appreciate that it has detailed instructions and all of the sizes in a single range for this pattern, which is not typical of the other Make Bra patterns. I would highly recommend this pattern to others, especially if they want to try Make Bra patterns or even sewing a bra for the first time, as the stretch cups are very forgiving when trying to fit. The pattern will definitely look a bit small at first, but I think this is very much a trust the process kind of project and the end result is very worth it.
Conclusion: Overall this is a fantastic pattern and a really great end result. I’ve become used to the really great drafting from the Make Bra patterns, but this pattern also has very detailed and really good instructions as well. The pattern has some unique features that at first I found a bit odd, but I must admit that they do result in a very comfortable bra. Overall this pattern is a winner and I’m sure I’ll be making quite a few more of them.
At this point I think the Make Bra patterns are quickly becoming my favorite go-to TNTs. I would like to explore some other patterns and brands before the end of the year, but don’t be surprised if the Make Bra patterns show up with regular frequency going forward.
