Doctor T Designs

It’s hard to believe, but the final issue of the 2019 BurdaStyle’s has been announced on the Russian website!

While I don’t think this issue is quite as good as the November edition, I do think there are some good things coming in December. Let’s jump in and take a look.

First up, there are a lot of jackets and robes in this issue:

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#113 – This blazer is super cute! I really like the streamlined shape and the tiny double welt pocket detail that helps to define the waist. I also think Burda did a great job of styling and fabrication – I especially love the blue floral version!

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#116 – Yes please! I really love the fit and flare silhouette of this coat, and I also think the asymmetric button detail is really fun! The high collar is super practical for very cold winters, and I’m sort of obsessed with the idea of making this in a pretty bouclé like Burda did. Also, in-seam pockets for the win! I think this coat is a perfect blend of practicality and style, and it is definitely going on my list! I do think it has some similarities to styles we’ve had in the past (here’s looking at you December 2016 #102 and December 2012 #104), but I sort of don’t care. Had I the time, I’d make all three of these, despite their similarities, because they are all fantastic!

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#110 – I like this robe/jacket a lot. I really like how dramatic the sleeves are, and I really like the hip-length of the robe. I also really love the fabric Burda used, which is slightly swaying me here, but I think this could be a nice layering piece, especially for those of us who aren’t dealing with the coldest climates heading into winter. Plus – imagine this in an amazing red jacquard or gold silk or even in sequins! It could be a real show-stopping piece for a holiday look, while having the added benefit of having a very adjustable waistband!

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#109 – Burda didn’t give us a full piece of sleepwear this December (nor did they give us a bunch of party looks… which is frankly a little bizarre for them), but they did give us one house robe pattern, which I actually think is pretty great. I love the pipping detail, and the giant pockets (great for carrying around phones and other things). If I wasn’t already planning on making an amazing Harry Potter robe, I’d definitely be adding this to my long list of patterns I want to get to someday.

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#111 – I think this jacket looks pretty cool. I really love the detail that Burda added to the orange-red version with the striped trim and hardware details. The front button placket closure is also actually really cool! It’s definitely a lot of look, but I think it gives off a super high-end and really cool vibe.

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#112 – I love this jacket! Well, I love it in the more technical looking puffer quilted fabric. The jury is still out on the Muppet chic vibe happening on the right. I sort of want to love it, but I sort of also know I would never wear it out of the house. I really like the hood and the in-seam pockets though. This looks like a really simple pattern to sew, but it also looks really cozy and warm for the winter. I also really like that the hood appears to be lined, and how high the zipper goes for added neck warmth on the windy days.

Next up, we have the winter dresses:

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#117 – Pretty! I’m not sure how much I’m into the who winter florals trend that seems to be happening, but I do think this dress is pretty. The front slit seems to be somewhat unnecessary, but also easy enough to just sew together as a normal seam. This dress also looks like a lot of styles we’ve has in the past, and I think I might personally prefer Burda’s previous iterations, but I do like the defined waist, and buttoned cuff details. I don’t think I’ll be making this anytime soon, but I do think this is a nice style for any holiday parties that might be coming up.

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#106 – The tuck detail on this dress is nice, but I think it gets completely hidden in the print version of this dress. I do like the view in the solid, but I’m not that excited by the overall silhouette. It’s the sort of dress that I think is nice if you like this style, but is sort of meh if it isn’t something you are innately drawn to.

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#102 – Another cute dress that looks pretty similar to a lot of styles we’ve seen in the past. The unique detail on this version is the slightly puffed sleeves, which is either good or bad depending on your stance on puffed sleeves. This one is a pass for me, but I will say that I think the simple style does make it work well in both a print and a solid.

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#103 – So, ummm, this is a pass. I mean, I sort of get the appeal of basically wearing a blanket as a dress, but like, practically speaking, no. There’s just no shape, no structure, and I’m really not a fan of the whole back button trend that seems to be in right now.

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#121 – Ok, so obviously this dress is totally gorgeous, and it’s also a vintage reprint from a 1950s Burda, which is always a bonus. BUT it also happens to be a reprint from the Burda Vintage 2014 special issue. So, while I will go on record as saying that this is by far the most spectacular design in the issue, I also have to admit that I already have it, and since it has been reprinted so recently, I won’t be considering it for the Best of BS award, even though, yes, it is the best. Swoon worthy in 2014, swoon worthy now.

The tops in this issue, while all seeming quite practical, are perhaps not the most exciting:

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#107 – The sleeve detail is quite interesting, although, again, it gets very lost in the print. I’m not sure how I feel about the sleeve length; it’s not full, but it’s not exactly 3/4 either. It’s that sort of weird 7/8 length where you can’t really tell if it is intentional or just too short. Anyway, aside from the sleeve details this looks like a really quick project, which could be nice for the busy holiday time.

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#115 – The top has a similarly loose silhouette, but an interesting scallop to the neckline and sleeve hems. I do like the way it looks in velvet; it makes a basic design look super rich.

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#114 – I really like this top! It’s a nice twist on a pussy bow blouse. I think the traditional bow blouses can be a bit constricting on the neckline, but this one is a bit more open while still having the drape detail. I really like this and definitely could see myself wearing it to work.

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#101 – I’ve never really been that excited by these sort of ruffle blouses, but I’ve been watching a lot of historical costuming on YouTube, so I’m actually kind of appreciating the Victorian-ish-ly inspired vibe here (historical costumers please don’t come for me… I’m using the term very loosely here). I do think there is enough restraint on the collar ruffles that this hasn’t totally gotten out of hand; and the overall silhouette is sort of nice. Not my favorite shirt, but not bad.

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#118 – I’ve really been into these sort of half-turtleneck sweater tops and I’ve actually got some fabric that would be perfect for this. It’s not anything terribly new or exciting, but it is very practical.

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#104 – For some reason the fuzzy top version doesn’t bother me as much as the boxy dress version, though I’m still not a fan of back buttons. As someone with back issues, the idea of sitting with little nubs of plastic pressing into my spine doesn’t sound like the best time. I could, however, totally see myself making this without the back button detail. I mean, yeah, then it’s just a basic turtleneck sweater, but it’ll be a really cozy basic turtleneck sweater.

I actually think the bottoms in this issue are a bit more exciting than the tops:

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#108 – Love this skirt! I really like how Burda has showcased it in both a more casual print and a really fancy satin – I think it work equally well in both cases. I’m wondering if some print blocking could happen using a stripe, but I might be getting ahead of myself a bit. I really like the shape and drape of this, and I really like the seaming details. It definitely gives me a modern 1930s vibe, which I’m totally digging.

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#119 – This skirt is perhaps not something I’d wear, but I expect it will be a really popular pattern. I think the front zip is a cool detail, and the extra large pockets are nice too. They are like just large enough to be like, look giant pockets, but not so large as to be totally crazy. The high waisted waistband is also a nice feature as well.

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#120 – I’m not sure, but based on the Russian site I think this might be a designer pattern? I really like all of the details in these trousers, from the front tuck, the cool belt tabs, and the side stripe with zipped ankles. There’s a lot going on, but it all works together so well.

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#105 – Are these the sweatpants that post-Thanksgiving dreams are made of? Quite possibly. I love the pockets, and the drawstring waist looks super comfortable. I’ve also been wanting to try some sweatpants with slimmer legs… Much as I love the pattern I use for my wide-legged PJs, having something that I could possible use to fool people into thinking I have sweatpants with swag might be nice too.

The Burda Plus selection is excellent this month:

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#122 – OMG I love this! The seams are just enough to add structure, without interfering overly much with the design elements. The in-seam pockets are a nice detail, and I love the shape of the collar. Also, the pleat in the back adds such a nice touch of drama! And, look at Burda’s print matching on the front of the coat – stunning!

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#123 – While I don’t think this red version is quite as nice as the longer style, it does have all of the same great features.

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#125 – This is a pretty standard sheath style for Burda, but I still think it works incredibly well. I love the wide v-neck and the shaping through the bodice. The slightly pegged skirt is a nice design feature as well.

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#127 – This looks like a nice casual shirt. It will probably be a quick sew, and the hem detail is an easy but fun feature. I also like the super long length, but then I do tend to like extra long tops.

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#126 – Based on the line drawing I thought this would be one of those oversized tent shirts, but actually I think these look great on the model. The extra lightweight fabric gives such a nice amount of drape, the high-low hem adds a hint of drama, and I really love it in the sparkly fabric for a slightly elevated but not too formal holiday party look.

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#124 – Finally, the Burda Plus section also has these trousers. I wish we could see the pocket detail better on the model, but I do think it looks cool in the line drawing. Might be a pattern worth playing with. I also like the slightly wide shape, as I think it will hang nicely from the hip.

The kids section has a mix of girls patterns this month:

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I think these are all pretty cute! Especially the little cardigan and the little coat. The Mommy-and-Me Muppet vest is sort of whatever (though kids being kids they’d either never put it on or never take it off), but the ruffled dress is nice. On the whole not a bad set of patterns, though I do hear the plight of those of you with boys this month.

And now, finally, it is time to award the last Best of BS for 2019! Hard to believe another year of Burdas have come and gone, but here we are. Although the vintage reprint was clearly the winner, for reasons stated above, I have removed it from the contest. Similarly, while I love the flared wool coat, it is maybe a bit too similar to recent styles to give it the top billing. So, in the end, I have decided to give the Best of BS December 2019 to:

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The Burda Plus coat! This coat is fantastic, though I think the model photograph does not do it justice (what are you thinking with that background Burda…?). The garment photo really shows off the mastery that went into crafting this garment though:

Truly, that pattern matching is a thing of art! Though, even without that detail, this pattern is really fantastic. It has a lot of great seaming details that really help give it some lovely structure and shape.

Now, on to the BWTF award, which, obviously goes to:

The blanket dress! While I think there may be some merits to this pattern (though I prefer it much more in the shirt/sweater version), overall I think this is such a bust. It really has such an awkward shape that it totally overwhelms the model, and I can’t imagine it looking much different on anyone in real life either…

And that’s it! The final BurdaStyle Magazine for 2019 is in the books! Of course, I’m still waiting for my November issue to arrive, but ostensibly the entire year of Burda is done. Overall I think December is a nice issue – there are definitely a few patterns I’m interested in making – but overall it’s not quite as exciting as November was. I think this might be one of those sleeper issues that I will probably grow to appreciate much more over time. While I know the annual fancy dress section isn’t for everyone, and the biannual-ish lingerie/sleepwear section is also usually a miss for most people, I have to say I’m sort of disappointed in the lack of a more holiday-themed section this month, since those tend to be some of the most spectacular designs in a year, practical or not. I’m wondering if they will have more party clothes in the January 2020 issue aimed at a New Year’s theme, but what do you all think? Is this issue getting you excited for pre-winter holiday sewing? Or are you feeling like the garments this month are a bit of a hodgepodge of leftovers from the year? Feel free to discuss it all in the comments!