Doctor T Designs

So a few weeks ago I published my not-a-pattern-review of my accidental steampunk jacket.  I was too excited to not post pictures right away.  But that was actually my second attempt at this jacket.  My original version was very much like the garment photographed by Burda – a lightweight cotton/linen combination that will be perfect for summer.  I had been obsessing over this pattern since the magainze came out last year.  And I finally got around to making it.  I have been wanting to add a lightweight jacket to my wardrobe for quite a while.  I expect my version will see quite a bit of use.  You know, once it is summer again.

BS-06-2012-121

I actually really like this jacket, though I may love my second version just slightly a bit more.  But the different fabrication makes them appropriate for different events and different times of the year, so I think they will both see their fair share of use, given time.  The only thing that really held me up on my first version was finishing the bound button holes – well, that and the fact that this jacket won’t be immediately wearable might have killed my drive to finish it.  In any case, it is done, so you can finally have a look:

My linen jacket – decidedly less steampunky.

Lightweight jacket will probably not be worn totally buttoned up.

Love the fit on the back.  And this one has sleeve vents, so the cuffs can be rolled up easily.

Close up – you can see that my interior has a lace print. I think that might be one of my favorite things. Or maybe my buttons.  I do love my buttons.

Sleeve vent.  I added stitching between the buttons, but am rethinking that a bit.  Might use another technique next time.

Here (finally) is my official Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:  Lightweight jacket with asymmetrical front buttons and sleeve vent detail.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 36-44.  I traced a 38 at the shoulders, and graded out to a 40 for the rest of the body.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I thought they were for the most part, yes.  Once I got to the section describing the bound button holes I thought it would be best to proceed with caution, so I pulled out my Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing and used the patch method to make the buttonholes.  After looking through Burda’s instructions, I realized they used the same method, and that the instructions were actually fairly clear.  The rest of the jacket instructions were quite good, especially for Burda, and I didn’t have any problems.  Though I will say that there isn’t a lot of complicated sewing in this jacket either, especially if you replace the bound buttonholes with machine ones, so it would actually be a really good first jacket pattern for a newer seamstress.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes!  My first version actually used very similar colors and fabrics, so it looked very much like the one in the model photo.  My second version was different stylistically, but the pattern is fantastic and turned out great both times, despite very different fabrications.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  Likes: The style and the details.  Also I found I had to do minimal fit alterations compared to some other Burda jacket patterns I sewed recently, despite having used the same sizes for both.  The jackets are quite comfortable to wear.  Dislikes: How long it takes me to finish bound button holes.  On my second version I used machine button holes instead, and it got worn much faster than my first version!

Fabric used:  On my first version I used european linen from fabric.com for the outside, and a stretch cotton twill print on the inside.  My second version used a faux leather poly suede for the shell with a muslin underlining, and poly charmeuse with flannel interlining for the inside.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  I did a 6/8″ swayback adjustment (less than my usual 1″-1.5″), I did a full bicep adjustment on the sleeve, and I raised the armscye by 1/2″ for fit adjustments.  On the second version I left off the sleeve vents and I used machine rather than bound buttonholes.  My second version also used the same fabric for the front piece and the facing, and I used a more traditional lining type fabric for the rest of the inside, rather than having the facing and interior act as a contrast as in the original design.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?  Well, I already sewed two versions, so, yes, I sewed it again.  I could see myself returning to this pattern in the future because I really like it, and I think I have my fit adjustments just right, but I also think two versions are enough for me at the moment.  I would highly recommend this pattern to others – it is very stylish and modern, but also easy to wear.  It looks great in different fabric choices, and it fairly easy to sew, especially for a jacket.

Conclusion:  Love this pattern!  I don’t think I have ever made two jackets from the same pattern before, let alone in the same month!  My second jacket is especially one of my favorite garments I have sewn this year, and I can’t recommend this pattern highly enough.