Pattern Review: BS-09-2012-123A

Ok, here is the final garment in my whirlwind of selfish unplanned sewing.  I really wasn’t thinking or planning to make this top out of these fabrics, but after cleaning up the scraps of my fun striped knit, I thought this pattern would be a great way to use the extra random scraps and some stash fabric.

BS-09-2012-123A Knit Top with Contrast Detail

My version is a bit more colorful that the one in the magazine:

The blue fabric came out of my stash.
The striped knit is from leftover scraps from my last top.
The back.  My version is different than the pattern.
Twin needle hems!

I am super happy with this top, and I actually really love the way it turned out.  Originally I was going to make it only because I feel like I need some more long sleeved tops heading into fall, but now I am thinking this might turn into a favorite.  I did make some changes from the original pattern, but since I wanted a more casual top, I am pleased with the way it turned out.  Here is my official pattern review:

Pattern Description:  Knit top with contrast shoulder detail and keyhole back.  View A is a shorter length, and view B is a longer length with gathered side seams.  I made view A, the shorter top, but I made a change to the back and neck finishing.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda sizes 36-44.  I made a 40 grading out to a 42 at the hip.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I hate to be one of those people… But I didn’t even look at them.  Since I changed the style a bit and I have made a lot of knit tops lately (so many men’s skating tops… so… many….) I decided to just follow my own construction order.  I used my serger for the construction, and used a twin needle for the hems.  I attached the contrast yokes, then serged the shoulder seams.  I set the sleeves in flat, then sewed the sleeves and sides all in one seam.  Because I changed the back, I make a bias binding to finish the neck.  For a size 40, I cut a 18.5″ long, 1 5/8″ wide band and used a 5/8″ seam allowance to make a neck binding.  I folded the strip in half, attached it to the outside, flipped it to the inside, and used the twin needle to sew it down.  In order to figure out the measurements for the binding I referred to a previous Burda top I had made – BS-02-2011-106.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes, I think so!  Since the photos only show the front, I think it looks a lot like them and the diagrams, but I did change the back and made it simpler.

What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?  I like the style and the contrast at the shoulders.  It gives interest to a basic knit top.  The pattern originally calls for a non-stretch fabric as the shoulder contrast, and I think this could be a great way to use scraps of a favorite non-knit fabric.  I also think the keyhole back on the original pattern is really elegant looking, but since I was going for a more casual look I decided to change that.  This was a really easy pattern to make basic changes to, so I really liked that as well.  The length is perfect, and I really like the fit of the result.  No dislikes.

Fabric used:  For the main body I used a steel blue polyester knit that I have had in my stash for quite a while.  I used leftover scraps of a poly rayon knit for the contrast shoulders.  The original pattern calls for a non-stretch contrast fabric, but I wanted a more casual all-knit top.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  Since I decided to use a stretchy knit for the shoulder contrast, I didn’t see a need to have the keyhole back and inside facings.  I left the back solid and used a bias strip to bind the neck instead of using the drafted facings.  If I had used a non-stretch fabric I would have probably followed the pattern instructions more exactly.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes!  I love this finished top way more than I thought I would – I think the contrast shoulders are super cute and offer lots of options for mixing fabrics and using leftover scraps.  I think I would like to make this again using the non-stretch contrast and keyhole back as drafted by Burda – it would give a more elegant feel to this simple knit top.  I think this top is drafted well and the design is great – simple but still interesting and sort of chic.  Love it!

Conclusion:  Love this pattern!  I am really happy and looking for fabrics to plan out another one.  I really loved the result of this pattern and I think it will soon become a favorite in my wardrobe, at least once the cool fall temperatures start to show up!

So, once again, yay for selfish sewing!  And score one for the stash!  This, people, is why we stash.  Actually, I am so happy with all three of the garments I just made.  Although I do have to point out that, once again, my sewing machine totally controls the weather.  I sew two long-sleeved tops and it is 107 outside. 107!  But maybe that was part of my super sneaky plan – I got some good wear out of my linen skirt.  So ha weather – joke’s on you.  Anyway, a few quick knit projects are just what I needed to get the sewing mojo back up to steam.  I am finally feeling up to dealing with lots of fitting and muslins and alterations, so I will be getting back to my McCall’s button down shirt and my first-ever Patrones pattern – some wide legged trousers!  In the mean time I will be waiting for the weather to change so I can enjoy my new tops.

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