Burda Dress Muslin and Some More Fabric

The raincoat is practically done (I still need to finish the lining hems – I am doing those by hand so there are lots of TV watching plans for the rest of the week…) and I should be posting my review within the week.

In the meantime I was able to sew up the muslin for my next project – the Burda 07-2011-131 dress.  Overall I rather like the way it looks, thought I will be needing to do a lot of alterations for fit:

The front – overall I find the front fit to be pretty good, and the length is about right.

Side view – side and back seams need some taking-in.

I need to add about 2 inches, and take in the width slightly near the top.
Also, note that the dressform has a slightly lower bust than I do.
This top is low, even for Burda…

The back needs a lot of work.

For the back I need to take out a wedge at the center back to narrow it around the collar, and take in the seams along the back.  I also need to reduce the length along the back – this is something like a swayback adjustment, except that for some reason on this dress the extra bagginess is much higher than normal.  I think this might have to do with the way the seams are curved, but I am not really sure.  Overall, the length seems to be pretty good on me (I am 5′ 7″ and long waisted), which is a bit unusual.  I know when I make Big4 patterns I have to add length, but when I make Burda patterns the torso length varies between being too short and just right.  I am pondering weather I should have actually used a size 38 at the top instead of a size 40, but at this point I think I will just make the pattern alterations as necessary and ponder going down a size with future projects (at least on fitted projects – coats seem to be fine as a size 40).

Also, I have decided to include the little shoulder sleeve things in my final project.  I don’t know it I like them, exactly, but I do think they balance out my shape better than the dress does without them, so I will include them in the final design.  Also, I think they make the dress seem a bit more fashionable or modern or something.  Although I think the dress still looks good without them too.  Now that I have a plan, hopefully I can get the patterns adjusted and the dress cut out by the end of this week so I can sew it up next weekend.

Also, this past weekend I had a flash of inspiration for what I want to copy as the RTW knockoff bonus item for my sewing challenge.  I don’t want to post pictures too soon (as I won’t be getting to it for a while yet), but I bought some fabric to be used as part of that future project:

Project Runway fabric from Joann

I am super pleased because it is exactly what I need for my challenge project.  Which I won’t be getting to for quite a while.  But I now I really want to work on that project, but I also know that it will probably be one of the most labor-intensive items on my list, so I really can’t start it until after all of my skating costumes are done for the year.  Which means I can’t get to it for several months at least.  So, well, perhaps I am being a bit of a tease, but I suppose that goes with the territory of having a year-long sewing plan.  Or maybe it is just me.  I do seem to have a lot of sewing projects planned out that aren’t necessarily challenge related.

What about you, other sewing people of the internets – how far in advance do you plan your sewing projects?  Do you always buy fabric with specific projects in mind, or do you just buy something pretty and find projects for your stash later?

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4 thoughts on “Burda Dress Muslin and Some More Fabric

  1. I almost always have to take out a wedge in the back/nape. Is there a reason why you aren't doing that adjustment at the princess seam? Will that throw off the shoulder seam?

    PS – Fashion Sewing Supply is having a sale thru the 15th. (I should petition to get a kick back since I promote them so heavily.) ha ha ha

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  2. Yikes that is a low neckline! I'll keep that in mind when I make my muslin up. Looks like it could possible also require a balconette style bra? Unless you hoike that front panel up a fair way!
    Like you… I'm in two minds about those little sleeve-lets, but I would probably include them too. Agree on the 'fashionable' front!

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  3. I have been debating if I want to take the edge out of the center or at the seams, but since that piece is cut on a fold, and I want to keep the grain line the same, I am thinking it might be better to take it out of the seams, When I was trying it on it was easier to just pinch the neck edge to take out the fold, so I colored it in there. I will probably move this adjustment to the seam though, since I have to take them almost all the way down the back of the pattern anyway.

    And thanks for the heads-up about the sale – I might have to order some interfacing in the next day!

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  4. Yeah, I think it was designed with the idea of using a balconette bra (I will be honest – I had to look that up, but yes, I think that style would be appropriate here). I just tried it on with my regular bra and put the arrows to indicate where it needed to be to cover everything up. I have such problems finding the correct size bra that I figured it would be easier to adjust the pattern than search out new undergarments!

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