Doctor T Designs

Next in my mini-series on Bee on a Wire projects, let’s take a look at the AFI Atelier Elegance Bra! This was a new to me pattern and a bit of an experiment. I’ve had a lot of trouble finding a good starting size with AFI patterns in the past, and did quite a lot of work to get the AFI Maya to work for me, so I was excited to see if I could perhaps get a pattern from this brand to fit with a more streamlined approach.

While I was pretty confident I would be able to get the other patterns from Bee on a Wire to work, the AFI pattern was going to be a bit of an experiment because the teachers for the class had not tested the AFI pattern at the higher starting sizes. The AFI website has a size calculator, but I haven’t found it to be the best at determining a starting size. Even in the pattern instructions, I found that the BCD to letter cup conversion really didn’t align with what I found might work from my paper cup sizing experiments. So I was a bit surprised when the 40F (and not the 40H) ended up being a good starting size for me.

I did have to take a fair bit off of the side cup and make some adjustments to the band, but overall there wasn’t too many adjustments to get this pattern to work for me. Of all of the patterns that I tried for Bee on a Wire, the Elegance is the lowest cut (balconette) style, so it works well with a regular 46 vertical wire for me. I describe this pattern as feeling “lightweight” – while the other patterns are more full coverage, the Elegance has a slimmer profile in the band and the cups, which feels rather nice while wearing it, at least once the other fit issues are resolved.

For this pattern I used one of my newer Bra Builders kits (Feathered Heart Tulle), and I’m honestly kind of obsessed with the colors and especially the lace, which has metallic embroidery throughout. It’s really difficult to pick up the metallics on camera, but in person it has a subtle sparkle that’s really nice.

I went for all of the features and details on this pattern, including the lace detail on the bridge and the wing detail on the back.

Tragically, because this is a lower cut bra, the lace on the upper cup needed to have a bit more stretch, at least for me. I can wear this bra, but it isn’t be best side profile. I’m going to have to make the pattern again with a stretch lace upper cup, and make a different pattern using more of this kit’s materials, because there’s something so unexpected and pretty about this color combo. I definitely went through phases of “do I love this or do I hate it?” while I was making it, but at the end I’m firmly on the side of loving it, even though it’s not entirely perfect in the fit of the upper cup.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description: 3-piece cup underwire bra pattern with options for lace on the upper cup, bridge, and back strap. The pattern comes with 2 main styles, but provides instructions for how to alter the pattern pieces to get up to 12 different style variations.

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes provides sizes in EU, UK, and US sizing and comes in 4 size ranges: 60-85/28-38 A-E, 60-58/28-38 E-I, 85-110/38-48 A-E, 85-110/38-48 E-I. I started with a US 40F. However, based on measurements the size calculator on the AFI website put me in a 40H or 40I. I made some paper cup samples and these looked huge, so I ended up starting with a 40F because it looked like a better starting point and was the pattern size that better matched my wire length (46 vertical). I think the calculator is helpful in deciding which size packet to buy, but I don’t know if it is the most accurate in recommending starting sizes based off of my experience and anecdotes I’ve heard from others who have sewn the AFI patterns.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions are extensive and very detailed. I am a bit ashamed to admit I didn’t really look at them because I was using a video sew-along from a class, but from what I have seen the instructions are very detailed and would be good if you haven’t sewn a bra before. I also appreciate that there are several pages of tables with information about the sizes, measurements, and expected wire lengths included.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes – my finished bra looked like the drawing!

What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?  I really love the style of this bra. It’s a bit less full coverage than other patterns I have tried, but it feels very lightweight and comfortable to wear because of that. I also really love the style lines and all of the suggestions for different variations provided by the designer in the instructions. I don’t really like the sizing system for this pattern – I didn’t find it very easy to figure out the correct starting size, and I’d actually almost completely written off the brand because of it. However, I’m really glad I tried this pattern again because this might be one of my favorite bra patterns.

Fabric used: I used microduoplex, lace, and power net for the back band. Unfortunately, the lace didn’t have quite enough stretch, so I’m going to make another version to confirm that some of the weird fit issues I’m seeing are coming from the lace and not the pattern.

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  I took a 1/2” curved dart out of the side cup at the underarm because I found that this pattern has a lot of wire spring and assume a wider root. I reduced the back band length by 1/4” and I did a “magic band adjustment” (IYKYK) that basically pivots the back band upwards to decrease the upper band length and increase the lower band length. I will note that I am extremely weird in that most people tend to find the band length on the AFI patterns a bit short, whereas I decreased mine a bit from the recommended starting size. I should probably start with a 34 band and add length rather than starting with a 36 band and decreasing length, but I prefer to take away than to add… so here we are. This pattern uses a measurement + 4” sizing for the band, but if you typically don’t need to decrease band length you may want to add a bit or go up a size in the AFI patterns.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  I’m definitely sewing this again! I wouldn’t be surprised if this becomes one of my go-to bra patterns because it is cute and super comfortable. And I want to try all of the different style options!

Conclusion:  I’m so happy I came back to the AFI patterns! I really love the style and fit, once I figured out how to start in a size that makes sense. I would highly recommend anyone who is planning to try the AFI pattern range audition a few cup sizes (either in paper or sample fabric) to figure out the best starting size, because it will save a lot of headache and frustration as you go through the fitting process.

And with that there is just one more pattern in this mini review series to go! I’ll be back soon with a re-review of the Josey Bra and some wrap-up thoughts from the Bee on a Wire class.