Doctor T Designs

It’s definitely been a hot minute since I’ve done a post about new Burda patterns. I had been considering letting my subscription lapse after this year, but the November issue has filled me with hope for the pattern brand. I don’t think Burda has fixed all the issues that have lessened the quality of the magazine over the past few years, but this was the first time in a long while I’ve actually been excited by more than one or two patterns in an issue, and that felt worth posting about.

I’ll get the caveats out of the way first. No, Burda hasn’t brought back their Plus section, and yes, they are still issuing re-print patterns. The paper quality is still not as good as it used to be, and the number of patterns doesn’t quite feel as expansive as it used to. My biggest complaint is that the Plus patterns are gone and the ability to get the Plus magazines in English is inconsistent at best and non-existent at worst, which really limits the size inclusivity of the patterns that are available.

However, I think if we are getting some great new designs I can live with some of the other things, because I’m not above frankenpatterning to get the size and style I want. Burda used to be my go-to in terms of both pattern choices and inspiration, but lately I’ve been much more interested in the Patrones magazine app for styling and overall inspiration. This is the first time in a long time that Burda might be coming back in the style and inspiration category, and I’m really excited by so many of the patterns we got this month! I’m not going to go through everything, but I did want to point out some of the new patterns that are getting me hyped.

Ok, so, if you go waaaaaaaay back to when I was reviewing the Burda magazines monthly, you will note that I was a complete sucker for the Burda coats and jackets. The trench coat (#102) from this issue is absolutely up there with some of my top picks from back in the day, and it’s definitely going on my sewing wishlist. I love the super classic lines, the welt pockets, and the slightly oversized sleeves.

This short jacket/coat (#119) is also super cool! I love the different ways the collar can be styled, the slight tuck at the sleeve hem, and the in-seam pockets. I don’t need super heavy coats where I live, but this would be perfect for our fall and winter.

This jacket (yellow #110, blue #111) looks like it might be based off of a pattern Burda had published before, but the pocket variations are really fun. The basic patch pockets look super pragmatic, and the oragami inspired knots are a really cool detail that I think has been missing from a lot of Burda designs lately.

We even get a fabulous vintage coat pattern (#129) from 1955 in this issue! Even though it’s from the 1950s, the three-quarter sleeves, straight silhouette, and oversized collar and pocket flaps feel like very modern details.

I’m a bit obsessed with this quilted jacket (#101). The faux belted waist adds just enough definition to help add shape to a garment that can veer a bit much towards looking like a marshmallow man. I feel like this coat is the perfect balance between style and pragmatism, and it’s another one that’s going on my list.

Another surprise hit for me is this dress with thumb holes in the cuff (#105)! It’s not the first time Burda’s included this feature in a design, but for some reason here the juxtaposition of the basic shirtdress with the sheer sleeves and the hand-warming cuffs just works for me. It maybe doesn’t make sense (like, hand warmers with sheer sleeves, what?) but somehow that makes it feel even more like fashion.

I also really like this sheath dress (#104). It’s probably a combination of the draping with the print, but the model photo just grabbed my attention and I was much more intrigued than I would have been had I just seen the pattern.

The cross-front trousers (#112) really feel like old school Burda. Was there ever an issue where they weren’t trying to sell us on pants with weird crotch designs? And I feel like whenever people tried this style it was never as glamorous as they had envisioned; I had never really been interested in making a version before, but for some reason this pattern is calling to me. I think again it’s the model photo – the pants have just enough but not too much drape to be interesting, and the drape of the fabric looks fabulous. Plus, it’s got pockets!

These trousers (#115) are not really what I would think of as my style, but they do feel very current. Originally one of those patterns I completely ignored, on closer inspection I really like all of the details and think this might be one of those sleeper patterns that I realize is brilliant 2 years into a trend. It’s not on an immediate to-sew list, but I’m keeping it on my radar for when we head back into spring.

Ok, this skirt (#116) is super basic and can probably be made with many an existing Burda pattern. However, the styling with the oversized sweater and boots feels very much how people have been wearing clothes the past few years, and the pops of color feel like the most current take on this type of styling. I can’t say that I’d wear this color combo, but I kind of adore this image and even if the skirt is really simple, this is the sort of slightly quirky fashion inspiration that I’ve been missing from the past few years of Burda.

This knit top (#113A, B) is the kind of top I love from Burda – weird crazy shapes on a pattern that end up looking borderline normal when they are on a body. I also really love seeing it in a print and in an almost solid; I feel like both Burda and Patrones were leaning heavily into the 1920s revival everyone predicted would happen back in 2020, and honestly I’m really loving the modern take on it.

This blouse (#120) isn’t anything terribly unique, but I really loved the sleeves and the print, so I thought it was worthy of making it to my picks from this issue.

The above patterns are some of the “Best of Burda” reprints for the issue (coat #125; shirt #123). Although I have both of these patterns from their previous issues, I do think that both are definitely worthy of being pulled for some of the “Best of” patterns. I also appreciate that Burda points out which patterns are the reprints now (they are quarantined to their own section in the magazine and they get an extra label on the page with all the line drawings). I (and everyone else) was justifiably annoyed when Burda was trying to pass off existing patterns with small or no changes as completely new; it doesn’t bother me as much when they point it out. I mean, sure, I don’t need another copy of this pattern, but there’s enough other stuff for me to enjoy that I don’t mind having having a few select Best of patterns in each issue. Now if only they would start going back to the mid-2000’s to start pulling those patterns…. and please don’t patronize me by calling them vintage, even if it’s technically true.

So, I don’t know if it will last, but it definitely feels like Burda is making a comeback. I mean, sure, even the new designs are very much in the vein of what they’ve made before, but I think that’s always been true to some extent. I’m really excited by so many of the styles in this issue, and even when the style has been a bit basic, the model styling has been inspirational. Next month we are being teased with men’s patterns, so I’m really curious to see what happens next. Unless what happens next is more digital issues inspired by Emily in Paris – then I might be tapping out.