Doctor T Designs

I’ve been enjoying participating in the events in The Hive (the year-long community off-shoot that started from the Bra Sewing Bee), and the June challenges were the Exquisite Bra and the Loftus Bra. I’d made a mock-up of the Exquisite in the past and knew it was probably not going to be an easy pattern to fit, so I decided to try the Loftus instead, which had been getting good reviews so far, especially from people with needs more similar to myself.

The Loftus is a really new pattern from Cashmerette, and expands the line from having the wired Willowdale pattern (which is one of my favorites) to now including a wireless pattern with the Loftus.

The curvature on the cup pieces is really interesting and creates a very round shape, though it does make them easy to mix up. In my first mock-up I put the central panel in upside down! However, I will say that for me the sizing was spot on, which never happens.

I only had to make a few changes; primarily raising the under arm a bit and reducing the length of the back band.

Because this bra is wireless, there is sort of a point where you just have to go for it and see how it works with all the fabrics and elastics in place. I tend to have to make lots of fitting adjustments, so I decided to make my first Loftus with a kit I wasn’t as emotionally attached to in case the final result turned out a mess. When it came I really wasn’t digging the very Christmas-y vibe of the lace, so it seemed like the perfect kit to use for the first sample. So here is my Christmas in June-ly Loftus:

Overall I think it came out really well! I’m definitely excited to make some more with my other kits that I like a bit better, but overall I’m really happy I tested out this pattern.

Official Pattern Review

Pattern Description: Wireless bra with multi-piece cup and wide bottom band elastic. From the designer: “The Loftus Bralette is a non-wired bra sewing pattern for big boobs. The 3-piece non-stretch cups provide lift and a rounded shape, while the internal powerbar and wide lower band add maximum support.”

Pattern Sizing: The Loftus has an impressive size range of 28C-54J (over 120 sizes) and all in one pattern purchase (many bra patterns have different packages based on size – I appreciate that Cashmerette does not do this). I started with a 36H based on measurements and it was a surprisingly good fit right away.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were very good. I got confused about the center front pieces on my first test fitting version and put them in upside down, but I realized it’s less confusing when you actually have all the pieces and are putting it together properly and not just for fitting. There is also a helpful sew along on YouTube, which really makes the center front construction clear. The rest of the steps are very straightforward, especially if you’ve sewn a bra before.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes! It looks very much like the line drawing and model photos.

What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?  I like the amount of coverage and the shaping this pattern has, especially for a wire-free bra pattern. It feels very supportive. I also like the wide band elastic because it’s a nice way to finish off the bottom edge and is really comfortable to wear throughout the day. On my first version some of the fabric and elastic was a bit itchy, so if you have very sensitive skin you may need to consider your materials choices for the neckline elastic (go for a wider plush picot elastic) and be very meticulous about cleaning up your seam allowances before finishing the elastic edges. After wearing it a few times I realized it was not the elastic but actually the raw edge of the center front panel that was rubbing. I’m going to re-read those instruction to see if I missed something, otherwise I need to consider how to have a clean finish there on the next version.

Fabric used: I used a kit from B,Wear in Sweden for my first Loftus. It has an all-over embroidered lace mesh, lined with sheer cup lining, and power net for the back band and internal power bar. The Loftus also uses wide waistband elastic and a few sizes of elastics to finish the upper edge, along with the typical bra strap finishings (hook and eye, bra strap elastic with rings and sliders).

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  I took in the back band 1/2” to have better fit (I have to do this on almost every bra pattern, so I should really just start doing it preemptively at this point). I also raised the under arm curve by 1/2” because I needed more coverage in that area. The upper band elastic allowance is only 1/4” but I typically use 3/8” elastic, so I just increased the allowance along that edge to make it easier for me to sew. I also changed the angle of the band elastic – the pattern has you put the elastic at a right angle to make the center front (I think to save on elastic or to make a pointier point), but everyone I know who has made it (myself included) has found a shallower angle helps the elastic sit better on the body, even if you have to sacrifice a bit of elastic scraps to make the shape (I used a 150 degree angle at the point where the band triangle attached to the center front). Otherwise I made my first version as is from the pattern. I will need to take in the back band another 1/2” for my next version I think; I’ve been wearing it on the tightest hook thus far.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend it to others?  I will definitely make this pattern again. Of the wireless bra patterns I have tried so far, this one is the most supportive. I found that I didn’t quite get as much lift as I was hoping, but there are limits to how much you can defy gravity without wires in a bra pattern. Even with that, it is very comfortable and I’d love to have a few for work from home days or days with long travel periods where a wired bra can get a bit uncomfortable. I would definitely recommend the pattern – it’s been the easiest bra pattern I’ve ever fit, so for that alone it gets a high recommendation from me.

Conclusion:  I’m happy I made this first version of the Loftus, but I’m excited to try another version with some minor tweaks that I think will help a lot with fit and comfort. I’m sure I’ll be making this pattern again soon!

Is this garment a “Triumph of Individual Style”? Honestly, no, this really didn’t turn out as something I would consider to be “my vibe” but I’m still happy I made it. I learned a lot about the fit of the pattern and I’m sure I’ll wear this around the holidays, but I definitely need to make another option that is more “my style”.

As much as I’d like to make another Loftus right away to play with my desired changes and see how they work, I really need to get some other sewing done and I don’t have a ton of time to do it, so I probably won’t come back to this pattern until later in July or even August. I’m happy I was able to make it this month between all the busy things though, and I’m happy to have it as an option for now.