Although I find myself reaching for my previous version of the Friday French Cuts far more than I would have expected, I wasn’t entirely happy with the bum coverage on the back of the pattern. I could go into a deep dive about pelvis shapes and pondering why I have to keep making certain alterations to commercial patterns, but I think today can just be a quick post about the alterations I made and how it’s working out for me. If you want the deep dive you should check out this post on the Sewcialists.
Anyway, after making my first Friday French Cuts I decided I really didn’t want to deal with the just barely but not quite wide enough back, so I did a full bum adjustment by slashing and spreading to create a wider back gusset seam. Measuring the difference from where the pattern was and where I wanted it to be, I added 2″ to the back gusset seam.
This resulted in a wildly different shape than the original pattern, but much closer to my self-drafted pattern, so it seemed to be on the right track.
After trying it on, the curvature of the back gusset seems like it is a bit too much and I’ll need to straighten it out, but it definitely has the desired effect of more coverage in the back. I might want to add even more to the back panel, but I’m on the right track. I’m debating if my next version is going to be a mash-up between the FFC front any my self-drafted back, or if I want to keep tweaking the FFC pattern pieces. I think I probably need more coverage at the hip, because without additional diagonal tension there the back still wants to bunch towards the center, which I’d like to avoid. So the fit isn’t quite perfect yet, but it’s getting there. And I still think it’s a super cute pattern – my second version of this pattern turned out just as pretty as the first!
I even repeated my clean finish technique for the waistband elastic, which I’m still really pleased with:
I think I’ve still got some fitting issues to play with, but I really like this pattern so I’m sure there will be more coming soon!
Doctor T Designs 
your waistband finish is a thing of beauty!
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Thanks!
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Oh man, I’ve been a fan of that Sewcialists post for some time. I dimly worked out something like that for myself when I noticed how much variation there was between RTW undies that fit me vs. ones I hated after one wear. Unfortunately, I didn’t get on with French cuts back when they were fashionable the first time around (not a fit issue but a dislike for where those style lines hit the body), but the problem of having the same fit issue with pattern after pattern (and brand after brand in RTW) is such a familiar one.
Is that powernet under lace? I’ve used that combo before and was surprised by how much I liked it.
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It’s actually sheer cup lining but I bet power net would give me a more compression garment which could be nice!
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