Sew Your Kibbe: Flamboyant Gamine

For an introduction to the Sew Your Kibbe Series, please see this post.  The posts in this series are intended to be a well researched and thorough investigation of the Kibbe style recommendations, along with several example patterns for each “level of dress.”  The posts in this series will be picture heavy and quite lengthy.  As always, you may want some tea.

Introduction

In last week’s post we learned about about Kibbe’s Soft Classic, a style type that has the minimalist Classic lines, but with a hint of Romantic softness.  This week we will look at the first Gamine subtype, Flamboyant Gamine.  Flamboyant Gamine is the result when the mix of features are both yin and yang, but with slightly more yang.  Kibbe’s Flamboyant Gamine is described as being “Sassy Chic.”  You can read more about Kibbe’s Flamboyant Gamine here.

Body Type Characteristics

The following are Kibbe’s descriptions of a Flamboyant Gamine Body Type:

FLAMBOYANT GAMINE PHYSICAL PROFILE

NOTE: The following information should be taken as a broad outline of what makes a Flamboyant Gamine. It is the overall combination of a combination of opposites/extra Yang on the Yin/Yang scale (smallish, broadly angular physicality, along with a youthfully bold and brassy essence) that creates this Image Identity category. Therefore, slight deviation here or there is always possible and should not be worried over if it does not upset your Yin/Yang balance. 
Height: 5 feet 6 inches and under. 
Bone structure: Broadly angular. Square shoulders. Slightly wide bones. Large hands and feet, in proportion to height (if very petite, hands and feet tend to be short, but wide and square). Slightly sharp or broad facial contours (nose, jawline, cheekbones). Arms and legs may be long, in proportion to height (if very petite, they appear to be slightly squarish). Facial contours tend to be broad (nose, cheekbones, jawline). 
Body type: Very defined musculature (unless overweight). Lean and strong. Straight lines (flat bustline and hips) unless overweight. Tendency toward a leggy look (coltish). 
Facial features: Usually have extremely large eyes. Usually have a broad or long facial shape (may be very round or slightly oblong). Facial flesh tends to be taut, unless overweight. Lips are frequently moderate to full. 
Hair: Any type of hair is possible, but texture tend to be extreme: either very fine and straight or very thick and wavy/curly. 
Coloring: Any type of coloring is possible (warm or cool), but Flamboyant Gamines tend to be distinctive – very fair, very fiery or very vivid. 
If overweight: Body tends to become stocky and square. Excess weight usually collects from the waist down, rarely above. Arms and legs tend to become thick, as does the waist and hip area. Face may become very puffy and fleshy. 
A Flamboyant Gamine will not:  

  • Be tall.
  • Have extremely exotic facial characteristics (except for extremely large eyes).
  • Have a delicate bone structure with small hands and feet (in proportion to height).
  • Have an hourglass figure with a waspish waist and curvy hips and bustline (even when overweight, the bone structure gives a more squarish shape).
  • Be symmetrical, in body type or facial features. 

Recommendations:

The following are Kibbe’s recommendations regarding the clothing and style choices that best suit his Flamboyant Gamine image ID.  The following recommendations will be taken into consideration for each garment type listed below:

  • SHAPE: Asymmetrics and irregular shapes. Short and wide geometrics with sharp or soft edges. Chunky, boxy shapes. Sculpted shapes. 
    Note: A mixture of opposite types of shapes works well for you. It provides electricity in your appearance. Always work with a narrow base and add an opposite shape for contrast. 
  • Avoid: Delicate, intricate shapes. Symmetrical, even shapes. Ornate shapes (unless they are very irregular and witty). 
  • LINE AND SILHOUETTE: Broken, staccato silhouettes. Broken boxy outlines. Sharply outlined edges. Severely straight lines or softly straight lines. Draped or flowing lines may be used when they are very elongated on the body and worn with a separate (either on top or bottom) that is opposite (sharp)-this breaks the vertical. 
    Note: An opposite use of line works best for you. Make your foundation from skinny, narrow, and clingy silhouette. On top of this, add irregular or asymmetric lines in a staccato, broken fashion. 
  • Avoid: All unbroken silhouettes. Shapeless silhouettes. Intricate, delicate, and ornate lines. Overly draped, flowing lines. Symmetrical outlines. 
  • FABRIC: Fabric should be lightweight to moderate, with a slight crispness. The lighter the fabric weight, the more tailored or clingy it should be. Very rough or heavy fabric may definitely be worn in jackets, or other separates, as long as it is combined with an opposite texture (for example, a skinny ribbed knit) to break up the bulk. 
    Matte- and dull-finished fabric is generally best for the dominant part of your silhouette; however, combining an ultra shiny surface in a separate to work with this is excellent. In the evening, your best sheens are found in hard-edged fabrics, metallics, and stiff fabrics (brocades, heavy satins, sequins, beading, etc.). 
    All textures are excellent on you, as are rough-surfaced fabrics, and all woven fabrics. 
    Knits and stretch fabrics are especially good, although the skinner and more ribbed knits need to be sculpted into shape by the construction of the garment (skinny stirrup pants, body stockings, etc.). 
    Thick, heavy, or bulky knits are excellent when used in cropped separates, such as vests, sweaters, jackets, etc. Keep these short, unless you combine them with something very clingy on the bottom (such as an oversized sweater worn over brightly patterned tights. 
  • Avoid: Overly delicate, flimsy, and ultra sheer fabrics. Heavy, stiff, and bulky fabrics that are not broken up by an opposite separate. 
  • DETAIL: Use a profusion of angular, sculpted detail that is ultracolorful and irregular or asymmetrical! This is the area that showcases your intelligence, your sophistication, and your wit! Shoulders should always be defined; pads are a must. You may go for an extended, sharp shoulder, or a very streamlined, rounded shoulder (sculpted, not gathered).Necklines should be geometric, asymmetric, or irregular. They may be very high and sculpted (Mandarin, Nehru, turtleneck) or low and plunging. Keep them cleanly shaped, without ornateness. Bodice detail should be sharp-edged (pleats, plackets, epaulets, etc.), and is best kept slightly oversized, as opposed to small. (Avoid intricate tucks and gathers.) Asymmetric detail is best. Contrasting trim is excellent (collars, cuffs, piping, buttons, etc.) as long as it is bold, not delicate. Lapels should be sharp and defined, wide and notched, or clean and sculpted-but not delicate and fussy. The waist should be slightly dropped or slightly bloused over. It may be eliminated in very clingy, skinny styles that reveal the shape of the body underneath. Dropped-waist trim (sashes, ropes, bold detail, etc.) is always stunning as long as it is asymmetric and not overly fussy or flouncy. Pleats are rarely effective and should be kept low and stitched down. Hemlines can be any length depending on the top (the skirt is always opposite the top in style), although shorter is most effective. 
  • Avoid: Symmetrical, plain detail. Overly intricate, ornate, or fussy detail. Wide, unconstructed detail. Wide, unconstructed detail. Elongated detail that is not broken up. Minimal detail. 
  • SEPARATES: An obvious use of separates is very effective in keeping your freshness, energy, and vitality visible. Be sure to work with opposing shapes, vibrant colors, and electric patterns. Mixing textures, prints, colors, and detail is a most exciting and elegant way to showcase your vibrancy. 
  • Avoid: Monochromatic and blended looks.  
  • COLOR: Your use of color should be electric, bold, and vibrant. Wild color combinations that no one else would dream of using are ultra fresh and sophisticated on you. Multicolored splashes played against a very light or very dark background are equally exciting. Always animate your look by breaking up your silhouette with lots of colorful accents. If you use one primary shade for the base of an outfit, then accent with a variety of bold and bright touches or else you’ll lose the dynamic energy that is your most appealing asset. Sharp color contrast is excellent. Be highly original with your color choices and combinations. 
  • Avoid: One long line of any color. Monochromatic color schemes. Overly blended pastels (unless they are well-accented or crisply defined in patterns). Neutrals, unless they are heavily accented. 
  • PRINTS: Prints should be bold and animated. Asymmetric and irregular patterns and shapes are best, as is sharp color contrast for crisp definition of shape. Highly original and unique prints are good, as are avant-garde prints. Mix opposing prints together using color as the key to continuity. Use your vibrant sense of humor in choosing prints. Opt for a bit of the zany here. It will clearly express your unique approach to life in the most attractive manner imaginable! Size should be moderate to large. 
  • Avoid: Overly blended watercolor prints. Small, symmetrical prints. Florals (unless they are absolutely wild and contemporary. 
  • ACCESSORIES: Your accessories should be cleanly sculpted and in angular shapes that veer to the asymmetric or irregular. When you use trim, it should be highly original, either avant-garde or slightly off-beat.  
    • Shoes: Should be angular and irregular in shape. Slightly chunky in style. Low, triangular heels or very straight, high heels. Asymmetrical flats. Brightly colored or pattered styles for fun! 
    • Avoid: Plain pumps. Delicate, strappy shoes. Ornate trim. 
    • Bags: Should be angular and asymmetric in shape (triangles, squares, skinny rectangles, boxes, etc.) Should be crisp leather, stiff and flat. Wild patterns, bright colors, and unusual fabrics are very chic. Constructed briefcases (with frame). 
    • Avoid: Small, rounded bags with delicate straps or ornate trim. Oversized, unconstructed bags. Moderate, symmetrical pocketbooks with a frame and handle. Collapsible briefcases. 
    • Belts: Belts should be wide and stiff or streamlined and sculpted. Bright colors, patterns, and unique fabrics. Crisp, stiff leather. Unusual buckles (asymmetric). 
    • Avoid: Delicate, fussy belts. Waist-cinchers. Subdued narrow belts. 
    • Hats: Hats should be small and crisp in irregularly sculpted geometric or asymmetrical shapes. Crisp ethnic caps are excellent (berets, Nehru, Spanish, etc.) 
    • Avoid: Oversized, unconstructed, and floppy styles. Delicate, ornate styles. 
    • Hosiery: You can wear any type of hosiery as long as it breaks your vertical line, instead of blending with the shoe and hemline. This can be accomplished by contrasting colors with your hem and shoes, by adding texture to the stocking (geometrics, herringbones, asymmetrics, etc.), or by wearing wildly patterned stockings for fun! Ultrasheer stockings are best kept for evening, when they get very sparkly and silky. Daytime, it’s opaques for you-they’re fresh and sophisticated while at the same time within the context of your highly creative look! Flesh-toned stockings are effective with very bare outfits, particular in the summertime. 
    • Avoid: Blending your stockings/hemline/shoe color together. 
    • Jewelry: Jewelry is one of your most essential accessories. It adds both the sophistication as well as the wit to your look. The effect may be either elegantly avant-garde or funky and zany, whichever you choose. Shapes are chunky, asymmetrical, and irregular. Lots of sculpted metal is excellent, as are brightly enameled surfaces and colored glass. Wild costume jewelry is electric on you, but keep it very contemporary in feeling. If you have a love of antique, go for the art deco era of sleek streamlined pieces instead of the intricate Victorian or art nouveau pieces. Lots of vibrant color, sparkle, or the gleam of polished metal pull your look together. 
    • Avoid: Overly delicate or intricate pieces. Heavy ethnic pieces (unless they are contemporary works of art, very sculpted in effect). Small, symmetrical pieces. Dangly, glittery pieces.

For the individual garment types, obviously, I will be focusing on the lines of the garment, as fabric and color choices would easily be controlled by the home sewer. It’s nice that he included a long list of acceptable fabrics though!

Jackets: Jackets should be short and boxy, emphasizing a cropped and horizontal line. The shoulders should be extended, either very sharp and crisp or a streamlined, sculpted curve. The length should be from the bottom of the rib cage to the top of the hips. A longer jacket is occasionally possible, but only when worn as a separate over a very skinny bottom or extra short skirt (or cropped pants). A jacket that is fitted through the waist is also a good choice, as long as the shoulders are extra padded and it ends at the top of the hips. Again, the shape for the jacket is sculpted, asymmetrical, and irregular. Contrasting trim is excellent, as is all angular detail (sharp lapels, piping, plackets, etc.). 

Avoid: Long jackets that hide the body. Standard tailored styles (blazers). Symmetrical jackets. Oversized, unconstructed jackets. 

Coats – Level 1: For all of the coats and jackets I focused on the boxy shape and cropped horizontal line.  I think we can see a little leeway in the coats section, but the shapes are still comparatively cropped and boxy, especially when compared with the other style IDs.

Burda Classic 2012 #0005B: The boxy shape is pretty obvious, and the shoulder line is a bit extended, though more with a sculpted curve here.  The collar and hem add a touch of angular detail.  The pairing with a skinny skirt (as shown) makes it work for the Flamboyant Gamine style ID.
Burda 6359: Short, boxy, with a cropped horizontal.  I think View B (the leopard) is better for a Flamboyant Gamine and View A (the rainbow) with the close cuffs will likely reappear next week for the Soft Gamine.
BS-12-2007-122: Another cropped style with angular collar detail.  The length to the top of the hips is good.
BS-11-2008-129A: This Burda Plus coat has a cropped line to the top of the hips.  The shape is short and boxy.
BS-11-2010-138: Another cropped Burda Plus design that has sharp lapel detail and a boxy shape.

Coats – Level 2: The Level 2 coats are a bit more tailored, and rely a bit on using finer fabrics to elevate the boxy, cropped style.

BS-09-2009-102: Boxy and cropped, but still very chic.  I could see this worn over a long pair of gloves to keep the arms warm in the fall/winter, and paired with a slim sheath dress it would be a knockout look.
BS-09-2008-116: This certainly looks warm, but despite the oversized shape, the style does not feel casual or sloppy for a Flamboyant Gamine.  The juxtaposition of the extra large round buttons and sharp lapels and wide shoulders add to the “Gamine-ness.”
BS-10-2010-113: Ok, so this probably doesn’t really qualify as a “coat” but it definitely qualifies as outer wear for those of us in warmer climates.  Again we see the cropped, boxy shape, and the potential to add fun trim as an angular detail.
BS-08-2012-104: Excellent use of contrasting trim on the sleeves; the shape is the same cropped, boxy style we’ve seen.
BS-10-2012-135: Gamines are often stereotyped as having wild outfits, but I think it is possible for a Gamine to achieve a more subdued look while sticking to the style line.  This coat is again relatively short and fairly boxy; the collar and pocket details aren’t exactly sharp, but I wouldn’t call them soft either.  The proportions are quite interesting, but the scale and combination of angular and soft elements reads as very Gamine.
BS-08-2016-114: A more recent cropped, boxy coat option.
BS-10-2016-118: The wide lapel creates that “extended shoulder” look to offset the fact that this coat has slight waist emphasis.
BS-12-2017-110: Cropped and boxy, with some fun, slightly angular detail.  The use of a geometric print fabric really pushes the Flamboyant Gamine look though.
BS-12-2017-118: This isn’t exactly boxy, but it is cropped and has lots of interesting detail.  The overall effect is of being fairly angular, despite the softer sleeve ruffle.  The sharp shoulder detail again offsets the slight waist emphasis.
Vogue 9157: Short, and relatively boxy.  The pockets and collar do have slightly angular edges, and the shoulders have a nicely sculpted curve.
Butterick 5685: The shortest view would probably be best to fit the recommendations on length; the sharpness of the collar lapel is a great detail.
BS-10-2008-128: Lots of angular detail and emphasis on creating horizontal lines.  The collar is also quite angular.  I think this could read as a Level 1, but I think in a different fabrication it might be able to work as Level 2 as well.
BS-09-2018-127: This Burda Plus pattern has the boxy, cropped silhouette, a slightly asymmetric hem, and some nicely sculpted lapel details.

Coats – Level 3: For the Level 3 coats, I tried to find something that would add an air of drama, but I didn’t do that well in my own pattern stash.  I do think these styles could be good over a formal gown though.

BS-12-2018-113: Fancy even in winter?  This cape/coat is cropped and boxy.  It has slight angularity from the hem, but a bit more drama from the draped sleeves.  The shoulders are well defined too.  This would have to be worn with a very tight bottom to prevent it from looking too large/unconstructed for a Flamboyant Gamine, but I think the cropped shape makes it work.
BS-12-2011-113: I’m pretty sure Flamboyant Gamines should just wear cropped furs over all of their evening gowns when they want to make an entrance. 

Jackets – Level 1: The level 1 jackets are all fairly cropped, but a little less boxy.  They all have some interesting detail, though perhaps not quite so much sharpness as in Levels 2 and 3.

BS-03-2010-114B: This cropped bolero adds funky angularity to this look.  The mix of the sharp collar and curved opening suit the Flamboyant Gamine aesthetic.
BS-12-2015-108A: Another cropped style, though this one is not so sculptural.  The square neckline adds just a hint of sharpness.
Burda 6800: Short jacket, ending just above hip level.  The lapels add angular detail, and the zip pockets add a slight emphasis to the horizontal line.  The shoulders are also slightly extended.
BS-09-2006-123: Short, fairly boxy, with details adding horizontal emphasis.
BS-05-2008-119A: Short, slightly boxy, cropped, with lots of angular detail.
BS-01-2014-117: A more recent moto jacket with lots of interestingly asymmetric detail.
BS-02-2014-128: The slightly less angular detail makes this jacket feel more casual than many of the other styles that have more precise or sharp details.
BS-02-2018-106: Cropped and boxy.  Here it is the lack of detail that makes this feel fairly casual for a Flamboyant Gamine.
McCall’s 6292: Cropped, with lots of angular detail.  The color blocking option or fun piping both add to the Flamboyant Gamine look.
Butterick 5994: This could be a nice casual Flamboyant Gamine jacket for cooler weather; the lapels add sharpness, and the overall shape is fairly boxy and cropped.
BS-10-2012-129: The fur detail adds angularity and horizontal emphasis.  The silhouette is short and boxy.  As shown it looks pretty casual, but in a different fabrication it could easily work at levels 2 or 3.
BS-05-2018-101: Very boxy and cropped.  Use of stripped fabric adds to the horizontal emphasis and Flamboyant Gamine look.
BS-12-2008-119A: A slightly more tailored jacket, though with a pair of jeans it could still look quite casual.  The collar adds a sculptural element, and the zipper placement adds a touch of asymmetry.
BS-04-2016-110: Cropped and boxy, with an asymmetry to the front lapel.  This could be fun for a casual summer look.
BS-02-2018-112B: This is possibly a bit too symmetric, but the cropped, slightly boxy shape with a touch of the detail at the cuffs adds just a hint of the necessary Flamboyant Gamine detail.
BS-09-2008-122: Cropped and boxy with a waistband that emphasizes the horizontal.
BS-12-2009-111: Flamboyant Gamines look great in a cropped moto jacket.  Lots of angular detail, sharp lapels, and a fairly crisp shoulder line.
BS-01-2017-113B: Similar style, but even more cropped.
BS-08-2017-127A: Here is a Burda Plus version of the boxy moto jacket.
BS-08-2017-127B: Even more Flamboyant Gamine in a wild leopard print!

Jackets – Level 2: For Level 2, the sharpness of details comes from more traditional tailoring elements, which read as a more elevated style.

Burda 6773: Cropped and slightly boxy, with very angular lines.  View B is especially good to wear for more formal looks without resorting to a traditional blazer.
Burda 7305: This jacket is cropped and boxy, with extremely sharp shoulders (I mean, for fur they look really crisp).  It looks great with a slim fit sheath dress.
BS-12-2009-127: Very cropped, very boxy; very much adding to that horizontal contrast.
BS-04-2012-124: Bolero styles are great; they all have the cropped line Kibbe is looking for.  The extra shoulder emphasis is great for the Flamboyant Gamine in this pattern.
BS-03-2017-101B: I think this is a nice illustration of how fabric can take a style that might be otherwise too plain and make it Flamboyant Gamine.  In a solid this would be a Classic style, but with the crazy fringe triangles it’s Flamboyant Gamine all the way.
Vogue 1536: Cropped and boxy with lots of angular detail.  While Flamboyant Gamine might not want to go entirely monochrome, I think this could actually work because the shapes are so bold.
BS-06-2014-107: Cropped, boxy, with lots of seams and detail to emphasize the horizontal.
BS-05-2016-104: Another cropped, boxy style.
Simplicity 8058: The asymmetric pockets and hem lengths really make this boxy style an interesting option.
Burda 6661: Not quite so boxy, but the length on view B is quite cropped, and the detail is very sharp, with animated trim that emphasize the angles.
Burda 7027: View B has a nice cropped length with very strong, sharp shoulder line.
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #1A: Short and slightly cropped, with a touch of an extended shoulder.
BS-09-2008-104: Lots of boxy detail to emphasize the horizontal.  It ends at the hips, and the shoulders are quite sharp, so the waist emphasis is ok here.
BS-04-2014-126: A very different style, but this also uses the short length and wider shoulder to get the more defined waist to work for the Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-07-2015-124: Cropped and boxy, but with enough tailoring detail to get away with wearing this as part of an office look.
BS-11-2017-104B: Another style that could as part of a Flamboyant Gamine office style.
Vogue 1143: The waist emphasis is offset by the sharp shoulder detail and very short length.
Simplicity 8178: Cropped and boxy.  It’s pretty plain, but it could read as more Flamboyant Gamine if you add a giant anteater to the back.  Just saying.
BS-09-2010-119: Cropped, boxy, and angular.  
BS-01-2015-104B: Lots of angular detail here.  The asymmetric hem is also nice.
BS-02-2015-118: Cropped and fairly boxy.  The angular seam adds a touch of detail, but the overall effect of the jacket is still pretty toned down and could give a more classic feel to a Flamboyant Gamine who isn’t all about the wild and crazy.
McCall’s 6294: View A is cropped and boxy with a nicely sharp lapel.  This could work at level 1 as shown, but styled with a skirt or dress it could totally have a more elevated feel.
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #2J: Cropped and boxy, with a strong angular zip detail.
BS-10-2007-108B: Short, with contrasting trim detail.  I think this might work well for Soft Gamine too because of the rounded collar shape.
BS-08-2009-120: Cropped, with very sharp collar and sharp shoulder detail.
BS-11-2011-104B: Lots of seam detail on this cropped jacket.
BS-09-2012-101: Boxy and cropped, with bold pockets to add that horizontal emphasis.
BS-08-2013-101: Any sort of color blocking creates nicely bold contrast and strong geometric shapes.
BS-01-2018-112: Boxy and cropped with tons of angular detail.  So perfect for a Flamboyant Gamine!
BS-09-2008-105: Yes, this is similar to the above style, but I thought this also have a very Flamboyant Gamine feel, especially with the button/snap detail.
Burda Plus F/W 2013 #405: A boxy Burda Plus option with angular zip detial.
BS-01-2014-131: Another great Burda Plus option.  I think this is a great way to do a Sophisticated Flamboyant Gamine look; if the contrast fabric were geometric instead of floral this would be perfect.

Jackets – Level 3: Most of these styles could easily go in Level 2, but they also work nicely with shiny fabric to get that Level 3 formality.

Butterick 6299: Cropped bolero with sharp hem and shoulder line.
Butterick 4688: The shorter style would be good.  Kibbe recomends this collar style in his general recommendations.
Burda 6899: Cropped and boxy; the floral again isn’t the best for a Flamboyant Gamine, but I think this style could look really elegant in a different fabrication. 
BS-09-2007-106: This could look so classy over a sharp sheath dress.  Love it paired with the elongated gloves to really create the contrast and horizontal lines.
BS-12-2008-105: Another great evening bolero style, this one with streamlined, sculpted shoulder curves.
BS-12-2009-110 and 107: Both of these jackets are fantastic!  The sharp lapels and shoulder detail are fun for an evening look, but use of very shiny fabric on a planer style works too.
BS-05-2011-121: I feel like anything inspired by 60s vintage would be very elegant for Flamboyant Gamine evening looks.  This jacket has lots of sharp angular detail and a cropped, boxy silhouette.
BS-12-2007-130A: A Burda Plus style with sharp lapels, and a boxy shape, yet a tailored feel.

Skirts: Your basic straight skirt should be short and slim, either severely tailored or sculpted into a clean taper at the hemline. This hemline should end no lower than mid knee (higher for fun, funky styles). A long, straight skirt may be worn if it tapers at the knee slightly and then flares out very subtly (not into a trumpet, that’s too much flounce). Then, there will be a slit, probably in the back. Pleated skirts are okay as long as the pleats are stitched down through the hip area. This has an uneven hemline, and will be longer (mid calf). Bias-cut skirts may also be worn as long as they are very narrow and close to the body. This also has an uneven hemline, and is worn to the mid-calf area. Asymmetrical hems are always excellent, even in evening wear, and long gowns should be fairly sort (showing the ankle). Dropped-waist detail is stunning as long as it is asymmetric and never flouncy or fussy! 

Avoid: Traditional symmetrical styles (A-lines). Wide, unconstructed styles. Full, flowing styles. Deep gathers and soft folds. Sharp pleats that are not stitched down through the hips. Bouffant skirts. 

Level 1: For the Flamboyant Gamine level 1 looks, it is the combination of details and fabric that make the skirt read as more casual.

BS-05-2008-124: Pleated skirt, with pleats stitched down to the hip level.  The tiny pocket adds a fun asymmetric detail.
BS-05-2009-105: Short and slim.  The slight gather at the waist makes it feel more casual, as does the fly front feature.
BS-09-2011-110B: A high hemline for a fun/funky style.
Simplicity 1370: Another fun/funky short style with angular detail.
BS-08-2009-122: Mid-knee length, with slight pleats at the hem.
BS-02-2014-108: Short and slim, with horizontal detail.
BS-10-2008-107: Slim skirt with lots of angular, perky detail.
BS-08-2017-103: Short and slim, with asymmetric zip feature.
BS-09-2006-120: Pleats are kept below the hipline.  Kibbe says pleated skirts can go to mid-calf, so the length should be ok!
BS-04-2015-117A: A shorter pleated skirt.  The length definitely communicates a “fun” vibe vs a “serious” vibe when compared with the previous style.
Burda 6717: View A is the obvious choice from this Burda Plus pattern.  Short and slim, with some fun asymmetric detail.

Level 2: The level 2 styles could more easily be incorporated into an office or date night look because the details read slightly more formal.

BS-06-2009-104: Short and slim.  The buttons add the Flamboyant Gamine detail.  As shown this could be pretty casual, but in a wool with metallic buttons this could have a very different feel.
Burda 6679: Views A and B have the length about right, but I think the View C color blocking could be a fun feature on a Flamboyant Gamine skirt.
Burda Easy S/S 2015 #5D: Short and slim, with fun asymmetric seamlines.
New Look 6312: This pattern could let a Flamboyant Gamine color block in a less splashy way.
Simplicity 1322: I think Kibbe would like the asymmetric detail in this hem.
Simplicity 1324: But I think he would like it more with the bold accent stripe added.
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #3A: Very short and slim, with lots of fun zip details.
Burda 6469: View B is that mid-knee length.  The angular pockets add just enough Flamboyant Gamine detail, but keep the overall feel very office appropriate.
Burda 6700: Short and slim, with lots of options to do some fun color blocking.
BS-09-2008-118: Short and slim.  I think this is a great way for a Flamboyant Gamine to use a “plain” skirt.  The skirt itself is not crazy (except the color), but the use of it to break up the black creates that horizontal use of seperates that Kibbe is after.
BS-10-2006-106: Another subdued slim, straight style that could work as part of a more conservative look.
BS-08-2013-132: The use of color blocking/trim is so perfect for this style ID.
BS-04-2007-106A: Pleated skirt with slim, stiched down pleats through the hip area.
BS-10-2013-120: A shorter pleated style for a more fun look.
BS-09-2016-121B: And a longer pleated style from a more recent magaine.
BS-08-2011-141: This Burda Plus style is right at the mid-knee level and pretty simple.  Definitely a good option for a Flamboyant Gamine who wants a work-appropriate look.
BS-06-2006-134: For this Burda Plus look we see the slight, very subtle flare Kibbe mentions in his recommendations.  The use of bias is good, especially on this super narrow skirt.

Level 3: For the Level 3 looks I focused more on Kibbe’s recommendations for longer, softer, but still slim, bias cutes with asymmetric hems.

BS-05-2016-106: Dropped waist, slim fit, with a possible bias cut section and uneven, asymmetric hem.  This could be great with a sparkly jacket!
BS-12-2014-115: Love the layering on this slim skirt.  The effect is subtle, but sophisticated, and adds just enough horizontal, geometric detail for a Flamboyant Gamine. 
BS-12-2005-131B: Simple slim skirts can work in an elegant fabric.
BS-11-2012-145: The pleating detail adds a nice geometric touch to this Burda Plus skirt.

Pants: Pants should be boldly man-tailored, in heavy fabric with deep pleats, plackets, and cuffs. They should be short, showing the ankle. Pants may also be cropped as short as you want. Skin-tight pants (stirrups, spandex, ribbed, etc.) are also excellent on you. 

Avoid: Wide, unconstructed styles that are shapeless. Symmetrically tailored styles. Draped, clingy slacks that are gathered at the waist and tapered gently at the ankle. 

Level 1: Since all of the styles are supposed to be cropped above the ankle, the shorter styles seemed to fit more into the casual category, though I think this is one section where fabric choice may have the most impact on determining formality.

Burda 6811: Skin tight and very cropped.
Vogue 1517: Another skin tight, cropped option.  It looks great with the cropped jacket style that Kibbe recommends for Flamboyant Gamines.
BS-11-2017-117: Stirrup styles are recommended, though I think it is hard for them to read as anything but casual.  Athleisure is in so at least you can be on trend!
Vogue 9174: Probably about as long as a Flamboyant Gamine would want to go.  The cool seaming details add to the Flamboyant Gamine look.
Vogue 1411: This whole look is very Flamboyant Gamine!  The length of the trouser to just above the ankle is perfect.
BS-07-2008-106A: I think it is easier to find the man-tailored styles in older patterns, as it is just too easy to find the skin tight styles nowadays.  The cuffs add just a hint of tailoring.
BS-06-2012-124: Nothing can be quite as skin tight as leggings!
BS-12-2012-124: Skin tight, cropped, with horizontal seam detail at the knees and with the use of the pocket zips.  This style could go from very casula to very dressy depending on the whole outfit.
Vogue 9284: Vogue has offered a lot of these close fit, cropped styles in recent years.

Level 2: The Level 2 styles have a bit more man-tailoring detail and a bit less skin-tight fit.

BS-09-2008-112: Cropped above the ankle, with seam detail and welt pockets to add the tailoring touch.
BS-09-2008-112A: The same style, but in a suiting fabric.  This pair of pants could go to the office, whereas the leather look has date night written all over it
BS-01-2009-121A: Cropped, with a slim fit and bold cuffs and pocket detail.
BS-12-2011-111B: Sharp man-tailored pleats on these cropped pants.
BS-03-2016-115: Another sharply tailored style with a cropped length.
Vogue 1439: A tailored, cropped style from Vogue.
Burda 7348: Both trouser lengths could work, though view C may need to be cropped ever so slightly.
Burda 6816: Skin-tight, with pleated detail.
BS-10-2007-126B: Man-tailoring elements in this Burda Plus style.  The overall fit is still quite slim, and the lenth is just above the ankle.
BS-10-2013-140: This Burda Plus style doesn’t have as much tailoring, but it does have the skin-tight fit and a nice seam that could allow for interesting fabric combinations.
Butterick 6461: Slim, skin-tight, and cropped to the ankle.
Burda 6985: This style looks great as part of a suit, with just a hint of the tailoreing in the front pleat.
BS-12-2011-111C: Very man-tailored, with heavy fabric and cropped above the ankle.
BS-01-2013-122B: Less detail, but the fit is slimmer to compensate.
BS-12-2013-106: This style has a bit more tailoring.
BS-09-2016-111: This pattern probably should have been included in Level 1, but I think it is pretty versatile 
BS-11-2017-120: The waistband adds and interesting horizontal line break to the overall look.
Vogue 9176: More slim, sleek , cropped torusers.
Vogue 1293: Vogue really does have a lot of this cropped style in its beack catalog.
Burda 6898: Burda also has a lot of cropped, tailored styles in their catalog as well.

Level 3: The fancier styles don’t really have many features that are different from Levels 1 or 2, but they are shown in fancy fabrics, so I included them here.

Butterick 5995: Cropped styles can totally work for evening.
BS-11-2008-105A: Cuffs add the “man tailoring” to these slim, cropped trousers.
BS-11-2012-107D: This is great; the trousers look so perfect for a fancy event.
BS-01-2013-122: Simple patterns are a great place to use fun fabrics for a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-12-2018-102A: Tjis pattern is from the most recent Burda and it would be perfect for a Flamboyant Gamine holiday party look.

Blouses: Blouses should be narrow, sculpted, and clean with simple necklines and geometric trim. Fabric should be of moderate weight and slightly crisp or flat, and should either be matte finished or ultrashiny (charmeuse). Any asymmetrical detail is excellent. 

Avoid: Frilly blouses. Ultraclingy blouses. Symmetrically traditional styles.

Level 1: The level 1 styles tend to be a bit less detailed but keep the clean, simple shape.

Burda 6779: Fairly narrow, sculpted, and clean, with a moderate weight fabric.  The floral lace might be a bit frilly, but a geometric lace could be really cool.
BS-07-2006-110: Narrow and clean with a simple neckline.  The trim could be more geometric, but the overall effect would still be casual and summery.
BS-05-2010-129: I would call this narrow and fairly sculpted.  The detail is a bit much to be “clean” but the fabric is crisp and of moderate weight, so I think it works for a casual look.  
BS-04-2018-113: Narrow and clean, with just a hint of Gamine detail in the back.  The pocket adds a touch of asymmetry.
BS-07-2006-107B: I think the collar acts as a geometric “trim” in this shirt.  
BS-05-2007-116A: The use of a geometric print and trim on the cuffs helps this shirt not feel too traditionally symmetric.
BS-06-2007-112: Asymmetric placket detail would be Kibbe approved.
BS-05-2012-103: Narrow, sculpted, clean; another great candidate for use of geometric print fabric.
McCall’s 7575: Narrow and clean; this pattern would look great in a crisp, flat fabric.
BS-03-2006-116: Asymmetric neck detail on anotherwise simple, clean bouse.
BS-05-2006-105A: This top has a very clean neckline, but would be great for a casual summer look.
BS-06-2006-124: The horizontal seams have interesting potential for color blocking on this pattern.
Burda 6630: The shoulder detail adds just a hint of angular sharpness.
Burda 6795: Clean, geometric lines on this simple top.
BS-07-2007-106A: Simple and sculpted, with sharp collar detail.
BS-02-2009-108: Simple styles with clean lines are great for funky print fabrics.
BS-07-2014-114: Clean, sharp, geometric detail.
BS-10-2014-104: Horizontal lines help break up this shape and keep it from being too simple.
BS-11-2014-113B: Simple neckline, with a clean, smooth shape.
BS-02-2016-118: This top has the geometric, sculptural feel Kibbe is going for.
S8750: Asymmetric detail at the neckline adds just enough detail for a casual Flamboyant Gamine look.
Butterick 6418: Lots of options for asymmetrcal detail or clean, simple, geometric shapes with this shirt patter.
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #4D: Color blocking alays adds geometric elements that look great on a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-03-2006-112: This style could be a bit plain on its own, but it might be good for a Flamboyant Gamine to have a few cleanly tailored looks to mix and match with more wild bottoms.
BS-10-2006-115: The ultrashiny detail adds a Flamboyant Gamine flavor to this otherwise simple top.
BS-04-2008-119: The color blocking adds a geometric trim detail to this shirt.
BS-09-2016-124: Geometric color blocking for colder months.
McCall’s 7538: Another narrow top with a very geometric feel from color blocking.
Vogue 9227: A Flamboyant Gamine could easily wear View A with the angular, geometric hem.
Burda Plus S/S 2013 #420:  A narrow, clean Burda Plus top.
BS-07-2012-140: Color blocking provides geometric elements to this Burda Plus top.
BS-02-2014-137: Another top that utilizes color blocking to create geometric lines.

Level 2: Level 2 styles have a bit more tailoring and elevated styling.

Burda 6694: Narrow and clean, with an angular, geometric neckline detail.
BS-01-2012-113: Even simple tops can have sharp, angular detail.
BS-08-2013-114: The fabric is not what I’d pick for a Flamboyant Gamine, but I think the style has a clean, goemetric look. 
BS-12-2014-111: Despite the peplum, I wouldn’t call this top “frilly.”  I think the triangular insets keep this top feeling clean and geometric.
BS-11-2015-111: Narrow and clean, with a geometric color block at the hem.  This would look good under a jacket, or paired with a narrow trouser.
BS-03-2018-110B: Another top where the peplum has more of a sculptural, geometric feel than a frilly or flouncy impression. 
Simplicity 1462: Simple and clean, with geometric trim.
BS-08-2005-119B: Clean, with a geometric collar, in a flat, crisp fabric.
BS-09-2006-105: A bluose with an ultrashiny fabrication.
BS-04-2007-110: Clean, and sharply angular, with perky detail.
BS-04-2007-111: A simpler style that is stil clean and sharp.
BS-08-2007-108A: Pleating and pin tuck details are great for adding geometric shapes to a blouse. 
BS-09-2005-109A: Narrow and sculpted, in an ultrashiny charmeause. 
BS-09-2005-112: Turtlenecks are clean and simple, and will look great under a jacket or with a Flamboyant Gamine skirt.
BS-01-2008-106: More geometric, clean detail.
BS-01-2008-107: Very clean and sculpted; this would be a great office shirt.
BS-01-2009-120: Simple details can add the geometric detail a Flamoynat Gamine needs.
BS-10-2009-105B: Crisp clean, detail in an ultrashiny charmeuse.
BS-05-2012-104: Crisp, clean detail.
BS-12-2014-105: Narrow, with sculpted shoulders.
BS-11-2015-112: Narrow, sculpted, with an asymmetric shoulder detail.
BS-02-2016-122A: Lots of geometric detail on this blouse.
Burda Classic 2013 #0010A/2: The style is simple, but there is lots of opportunity to use a fun trim here.
BS-08-2008-108: Narrow and sculptural; the use of geometric print fabric also helps make this feel Flamboyant Gamine in style.
BS-08-2015-124A: Color blocking agains offers geometric detail.
BS-11-2017-119: Although the peplum has a bit of flounce, the color blocking lines result in this top having an overall clean, geometric feel. 
Burda 6713: Angular neckline detail on this Burda Plus blouse.
BS-12-2013-135: Simple, clean, geometric shapes.

Level 3: The Level 3 styles all slightly break the recommendations, but I think they would result in an overall fancy Flamboyant Gamine look.

Burda 6977: The peplum could read as a bit flouncy, but I think the overall effect here is pretty clean and sculpted, especially around the neckline.  The cut of this peplum comes off as more perky than flouncy.
Burda 7192: Clean, sharp, geometric lines.
BS-12-2005-101: Clean and narrow, with sparkly fabric.
BS-11-2012-120: This peplum provides a sharp geometric shape at the waist, which gives a narrow, clean silhouette. I wouldn’t call this “frilly” by any means.
BS-09-2008-107: Simple styles mean using exquisite and exciting fabrics.
Burda 7986: Clean, narrow, and sharp.
Butterick 6134: Narrow and clean, with a simple, sculpted neckline.
Burda 6435: Sharp, sculpted shoulders.  This top could look nice with narrow trousers or a fancy skirt.
Burda 6646: In a less frilly fabric this top would be clean, sleek, and geometric.
BS-11-2007-104: Crisp, clean, with an asymmetric detail.
BS-09-2017-109: Asymmetric shoulder detail in a shiny fabric.  The overall shape is very clean and narrow.
BS-01-2011-132: Clean and sculpted, with a simple neckline.
BS-12-2014-142: Lots of geometric elements in this ultrashiny charmeuse blouse.

Sweaters: Sweaters should have a sculpted shape, in skinny ribbed knits, or be heavy and bulky, worn in shorter cropped styles that are body hugging. Patterns should be bold and geometric with irregular shapes. Animated patterns are excellent as are highly original styling and details that show your wit and humor to advantage. Shoulder pads should always be worn in sweaters-the sculpted curved shapes in the skinny knits, the over-sized sharp shapes in the bulkier cropped styles. 

Avoid: Traditional symmetrical styles (crew-necked shetlands, cardigans). 

Level 1: The sweaters in tis level give off a very casual feel.

Burda Easy F/W 2014 #2A: Body hugging and cropped; this sweater also helps to create a horizontal line and shoulder emphasis. 
New Look 6417: I think view C (the pink/red one) is quite sculptural, and short enough to avoid being overwhelming on a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-09-2014-139: Cropped and slightly bulky.
BS-08-2013-127: Bold, geometric pattern with irregular shapes.  The ultimate stereotypical Flamboyant Gamine sweater.
BS-08-2014-109: Bold geometric shapes on a cropped sweater.
BS-08-2016-107: Bulky, cropped style with animated trim detail.
Butterick 6132: Thin knit is worn closer to the body.  The neck is very clean and sculpted.
BS-08-2015-115A: Simple styles require bold prints to compensate.

Level 2: The level 2 looks will work better for a more formal occasion.

McCall’s 6796: Sharp, angular, geometric collar detail.
BS-09-2018-109A: The overall silhouette feels very sculpted.
BS-02-2012-122: Sharp geometric lines from the contrasted fabric.
Burda 6846: View A is a fantastic sweater top for a Flamboyant Gamine.  Lots of interesting, sharp, angular, but slightly irregular geometrics from the interesting design.
BS-08-2016-106: Bulky knit in a cropped style.

Level 3: I couldn’t find a lot of knots with a sculpted style, but I think that looking for bolero style jackets that could work in a knit would be good for this category: 

Vogue 9016: Sharp angular shapes in a very cropped style.

Dresses: Dresses should be sculpted, tailored, and short. Narrow styles that are cut close to the body. Sharply extended or streamlined curves at the shoulders. Asymmetric detail and contrasting trim are both excellent touches. Waists should usually be lowered, but a wide stiff belt in a contrasting color could also be used. Hemlines are short if the skirt is straight, longer if the skirt is uneven. Blouson styles with a dropped waist are also good. Fabric should be of moderate to light weight to always reveal your shape. Ribbed-knit dresses that sculpt to the contours of the body are excellent. Asymmetrical hemlines and dropped waist detail are very chic. 

Avoid: Frilly, flouncy dresses. Full, flowing dresses. Traditional symmetrical dresses (shirtwaists, etc.). Wide, unconstructed dresses.

Level 1: Flamboyant Gamines have a lot of options for the shape of the dress, and we see lots of styles and silhouettes in all levels.  The casual looks all tend to stick with more moderate weight fabrications.

BS-04-2008-118: This dress does have a lot of symmetry, but there is also lots of contrast with the trim, and I would argue that the shape is “narrowly sculpted” for a casual day dress.
BS-05-2009-128: Tailored and short, in a narrow style with lots of detail.  I could see this worn over a long sleeved top as part of a fun fall or winter look.
BS-05-2012-107C: Narrow, with sculptural shoulders and asymmetric, contrasting detail.  Fabric choice could really elevate this dress to a Level 2 or even Level 3 look.
BS-07-2012-101: Short, narrow style with a lower waist.
BS-07-2012-105: Similar to the above style.  The “uneven” hem makes the longer length work.  Lots of bold contrasting geometric shapes and asymmetric detail.
BS-09-2012-105: Short and narrow, very tailored.  The photo shows another way that Flamboyant Gamines can mix and match more simple pieces (like the dress/jumper) but use fabric to add the Flamboyant Gamine flare.
BS-06-2013-115: Contrast at the waist acts as a “wide belt” for this closely fitted dress.
BS-06-2013-125: Athletic, sporty styles feel very modern but also offer lots of places to do color blocking to get the Flamboyant Gamine look.
BS-07-2014-113: Another short, sculptural look with color blocked elements.
BS-09-2012-107: Short and narrow; close to the body but not fitted in the way that a Romantic type would be.
BS-02-2009-124A: The use of a belt helps break up a symmetric style.
BS-10-2015-113B: Narrow and sculpted.  Even small contrasting details offer enough excitement for a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-02-2016-124: The color blocking trend produced so many great patterns for the Flamboyant Gamine!
Simplicity 8174: Narrow, very fitted, with contrasting trim.  Ribbed knit dresses are “excellent” according to Kibbe.
Simplicity 1276: More contrasting, asymmetrical detail options in these knit styles.
BS-11-2008-118: With the right fabric even a plain style can be perfect for a Flamboyant Gamine.  Note also the use of the wide belt!  What’s great about this pattern is you could shorten it and have both a TNT knit dress and a TNT knit top pattern!
Burda Plus F/W 2015 #410: LOVE this Burda Plus dress for a Flamboyant Gamine.  In the general recommendations Kibbe is after a “T” silhouette, and you totally get that from this dress.  Plus you get lots of fun, funky, contrasting details.
BS-06-2014-133: Narrow and sculpted with sharp shoulders on this Burda Plus design.
BS-07-2016-130: Short and narrow.  The waist detail sort of acts as a “wide belt” in the design.
BS-03-2013-110: Narrow and sculpted; the bias tape detail adds just a hint of the contrasting trim Flamboyant Gamines need.
BS-06-2013-116: Tailored and short, with fun pocket details.
BS-05-2014-113: Contrasting geometric shapes with color blocking.
BS-02-2009-106: “Two-piece” style dresses are great for breaking up the vertical line.  The use of a belt would be Kibbe approved.
BS-01-2009-119: Sculpted, tailored, short, with fun tuck details to create a horizontal emphasis at the shoulders.

Level 2: Flamboyant Gamine looks can go very wild, but I think most of these looks could work in a more subdued fabrication for a work-appropriate style.  The more fun/funky styles will be great for parties or events where the casual styles would be, well, too casual.

Burda 6381: The shorter style (view B) would be great; it’s close to the body and has fun contrasting trim.  I could see View A maybe working with a thick belt and a boxy coat.
BS-06-2012-130: Short and sculpted, with a dropped waist detail.
BS-07-2012-112: The belt at the dropped waist is a great detail.  The fabric is a bit lighter here, but that is ok per Kibbe’s recommendations, as it shows the shape of the body.
Vogue 1595: This dress creates that “T” shape, with chunky sleeve detail, but an overall sculpted feel.
BS-10-2011-116: Narrow, close style with bold contrast at the collar, hem, and cuffs.
BS-09-2017-111: Narrow and tailored.
Simplicity 1249: This dress is more fitted, but the contrast bodice is a good detail. 
Butterick 6088: Geometrics from color blocking.
Butterick 6410: Sculpted knit dress with geometric contrasts.  The shorter lengths would be best for Flamboyant Gamine. 
Burda 6576: Another dress with bold geometrics to create the sense of a dropped waist.  View B is the better length, but I think View A could work too.
Burda 6673: A fun Burda Plus option with color blocking and asymmetric detail. 
Burda 6676: A more traditional dress, but with a clean, geometric use of color blocking.
Burda 6756: Burda has a ton of these cool color blocked styles in their catalog. 
Burda 6784: Another fun Burda Plus option.  Both styles could work; the asymmetric hem of View B works wihin Kibbe’s recommendations.
Burda 6851: More color blocked awesomeness. 
Burda 6858: Cut-outs create fun geometrics.  The longer dresses could be good for evening events; and the above-the-ankle length is great for a Flamboyant Gamine. 
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #4F: Another use of fun cut-outs.  I made this dress, but I never really wore it because I always felt weirdly “off” in it.  Realizing that it is better for a Flamboyant Gamine pinpoints why I never really felt comfortable in the dress.
Burda Easy F/W 2014 #4G: The Burda Easy magazines usually showcase the same style in many ways.  Flamboyant Gamines should really track down the Fall/Winter 2014 issue – these were GREAT patterns and so many of them work for this style ID.
Burda Easy S/S 2015 #5A: Short and close fitting, with lots of potential for geometric color blocks or use of pipping to create contrast.
BS-05-2008-116: Narrow and fitted, with the use of a belt to break up the line.
BS-02-2012-117A: Color blocking.
BS-08-2014-103: More color blocking. 
BS-10-2014-101A: The skirt flares a bit, but the overall shape is quite close, and the potential for the color block really works well for the Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-08-2015-122B: Sharp geometrics with color blocking.  The belt is a great accessory for the Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-10-2016-105: Close fitting with asymmetric color block contrast.
McCall’s 7430: Slim fit ribbed knit dress with bold shoulder line.
Vogue 9079: Very bold use of geometric shapes on this dress.
Vogue 9024: Sharp detail and asymmetric shapes.
Vogue 9019: Potential for subtle color block at the shoulders; a great way for Flamboyant Gamine to go subtle and more sophisticated.
Vogue 9017: Narrow style with bold contrast.
Vogue 8997: Narrow, with sharp geometric shapes from the seam lines.
Vogue 1468: Fun use of asymmetric lines to create bold contrast.
Vogue 1370: Subtle asymmetric color blocking. 
Vogue 1329: Bold geometric shapes on this short, narrow dress.
Simplicity 8547: More use of bold color blocks to create contrast.
BS-08-2012-143: A more subtle use of contrast can be made by mixing different textures of fabric.  This would be very sophisticated and office appropriate but still have enough detail for a Flamboyant Gamine. 
BS-08-2012-144: Another Burda Plus design that makes use of subtle contrast to create geometric shapes.
BS-06-2013-141: Very tailored and short, with a dropped waist.
BS-01-2014-133: Contrast through color blocking on this Burda Plus dress.
BS-02-2014-141: Asymmetric color blocked detail. 
BS-09-2014-138: Mixing prints is great for a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-11-2016-132: I think the neckline is really sophisticated, but it also provides just enough detail on this otherwise simple, fitted dress.
Butterick 5277: The bold collar (in black) would be great for a Flamboyant Gamine who can’t get too wild with fabric mixing.
BS-09-2007-111A: I think this is a great illustration of how a dress can be simple, but by following the general shape guidelines it still works in a Flamboyant Gamine look.
BS-09-2008-106: Simple styles are great for interesting prints.  Sharp shoulder detail is good too.
BS-09-2008-109: I would call this pretty sculptural. 
BS-08-2009-124: Narrow and short, with very angular shoulder detail.
BS-09-2009-111: Geometric shapes come through sophisticated pleating detail on the bodice.  For the Flamboyant Gamine who doesn’t really enjoy being that “flamboyant.” 
BS-02-2012-110A: Mixing fabrics, colors, and textures makes simple dresses very exciting.
BS-09-2012-121: The dress is simple, but the overall look feels like it could work for a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-01-2014-119: Bold use of geometric shapes and print blocking.
BS-08-2014-131: Dropped waist style that could work under a jacket as part of an office look.
Vogue 1555: Vogue offers us some color blocking in this short, fitted style.
Simplicity 1060: Color blocking in a more conservative style.

Level 3: As with the skirts, the level 3 styles have a bit more flow and focus on the more special recommendations like “blouson” styles and dresses with longer hemlines.  The softer styles would be a bit more of a “fashion risk” – they may work more or less depending on what combination of yin and yang elements a particular Flamboyant Gamine has, but I thought they were worth included as options.

BS-04-2011-126: Blouson with a dropped waist.  Possibly a *bit* too unconstructed, but I think the overall shape is still properly geometric for a Flamboyant Gamine.
BS-07-2011-126: Definitely a blouson. The strapless bodice adds the sharp geometry by the face; the dropped waist gathers the style in a way that creates interesting horizontal breaks.
BS-07-2012-102: Dropped waist with uneven, slightly elongated hemline.
BS-08-2012-123: Blouson style with a dropped waist.
BS-11-2010-111: Another dropped waist blouson style.  The shoulders are quite bold and wide.
Burda 6868: View A is narrow and has a nice asymmetric neckline.
BS-03-2006-127: Subtle geometric shaping detail on this dress.
BS-12-2006-108: Tailored, but with lots of detail to create geometric shapes on the bodice.
BS-11-2010-106: Perfect use of a dropped waist belt on this dress style.
BS-06-2015-113: Use of color blocking to break up the design.
BS-06-2015-124: Narrow and short, with a fun use of cut-outs to create a geometric space on the back.
BS-04-2015-105A: Close fitting, with fairly strong geometric lines in a very soft fabric could make a fun evening look.
BS-11-2007-105A: Narrow, sharp, and short.  The belt is a must for this style!
BS–10-2015-112A: Narrow and short.  The ruffles create sharp angles, which makes this an interesting option for a Flamboyant Gamine.
McCall’s 7282: Short and close fitting with belt and angular neckline detail.  Fun opportunity for contrast trim detail here.
Vogue 1432: Lots of opportunity for color blocking on this design.
Vogue 1271: Narrow and short, with a “belt” to add a horizontal break.  The shoulders are also quite sculpted.
Butterick 5852: Color blocking works for evening too!
Butterick 6127: Narrow and sculpted.  Using a contrasting jacket adds sharp detail and breaks the vertical line. 
BS-01-2012-114: Narrow and tailored with geometric edges.
McCall’s 6602: Sharp, angular shapes with potential for color blocking. 
Butterick 5559: Angular, asymmetric detail can be subtle.
Burda Plus F/W 2013 #424: A nice Burda Plus option with sharp edges and a close, short fit.
Burda Plus F/W 2013 #423: Same style, but with sleeves and a slightly different neckline.
BS-06-2008-128: Shoulder emphasis and sparkly trim is always good.
BS-11-2012-146: Geometric shpaes made with cleaver use of pleating.
BS-07-2016-123A: Another Burda Plus option with a fun use of trim to create a geometric neckline detail.
Butterick 6299: Color blocking can be stunning in a fancy jacquard. 

Evening Wear: Narrow shapes with geometric edges. Smooth fabric. Hard-edged metallics. Beading. Crisp, tailored, and colorful trim. Asymmetrical hemlines. Playful accessories. Slinky gowns with broad shoulders. Sleek sheaths that are very bare. Dropped-waist dresses with shoulder emphasis. Flapper-style cocktail dresses. Short-jacketed pants outfits (cropped, beaded jackets, wide legged satin pajamas pants, etc.). Evening separates (blouses, pants, slinky skirts, etc.) with glitzy trim.  

I focused on finding evening gowns for this section, as longer styles don’t really work in the regular dress recommendations as well.  Flapper styles can be seen in Level 3 dresses, and the suits could be makde with a combination of Level 3 looks from the pants, blouses, and jackets sections.  But now let’s look at gowns – there are a few really fun ones!

Butterick 6353: Ok, so the train is long and flowing, but the dress itself is very narrow, with geometric edges and lots of potential for beaded trim.
Burda Classic 2012 #0004C: Narrow shape, geometric edges, slinky feel, with broad shoulders.
Burda Classic 2013 #0014B: Sleek sheaths with lots of beading and a geometric neckline.
Burda 6707: Dropped waist gown with lots of potential for contrast and use of beaded fabrics and trim.
BS-12-2017-119: Narrow shape with geometric details.
McCall’s 6075: Slinky sheath that is very bare.
Vogue 7365: Another bare slinky sheath.
Simplicity 8330: Narrow fit with geometric edges.
Simplicity 2253: Crisp tailoring and a narrow shape.
Simplicity 1874: Narrow shape with really animated detail and asymmetric angular shapes.
Burda 6943: Geometric edged, slim shapes, with fun bold prints.
Burda 6547: A slim Burda Plus style with options for asymmetric color blocking. 
Burda 6712: A slim fit sheath with a strong geometric neckline.

Another style ID down!  There are certainly a lot of fun styles for Flamboyant Gamines; I can understand why this tends to be one of the most popular IDs.  I tried really hard not to fall into the trap of only looking for stereotypical designs.  Yes, I did include a lot of color blocked styles, because they do all work with the recommendations, and because we’ve had a lot of really great color blocked patterns come out the past several years.  However, I also tried to find a lot of styles that included the geometric breaks Kibbe suggests using other sewing techniques like pleating, tucks, or top stitching.  I also tried to offer a variety of silhouettes as best I could, though Kibbe is pretty specific about which garments need to be fitted and which need to be more boxy for this type.  As with all Gamine types, the combination of yin and yang elements is random, so it can be hard to say which styles might suit a particular individual better.

I also think the Flamboyant Gamine style ID has a lot of room to create personal expression.  This is likely what created the stereotype that Flamboyant Gamines are “more fun” than other style IDs.  And while I have to agree that they can get away with eye catching prints and bold shapes more easily than many of the the other IDs, I think that every ID can look “more fun” or “more serious” within their own recommendations.  Merriam Style did a great video exploring this topic.  Essentially, you have to consider everything in terms of scale.  A Flamboyant Gamine can go very “large scale” in term of detail.  Very boldly detailed styles don’t look overly detailed on them, they look normal.  “Normal” detail on a Gamine would be “too much” on a Classic.  That’s why any addition of simple detail or print or accessory can really make a Classic outfit look “fun,” whereas a Flamboyant Gamine has to go all out to create the “fun” vibe.  When comparing style lines on paper one might look “more fun” but when comparing them on people the overall image is more important.  Because the Flamboyant Gamine has to go so bold to create the “fun” impression the style is often seen as being all out wild, but I also think there is plenty of room to be a sophisticated Flamboyant Gamine, or a relaxed one, or an artistic one.  The ways to achieve personal style are possibly a bit more clear in this style ID because the visual impact of the examples is more wide ranging, but I think adding personality to style is possible with all IDs.

On a personal note, I had the hardest time finding non-Burda and Plus size examples for this ID.  I think Burda has some great options in the regular size ranges for Flamboyant Gamines, but the Plus styles really seem designed for Natural and Soft Dramatic ladies.  Which sort of makes sense from an “ease of drafting for larger sizes perspective” (which I don’t have enough knowledge to comment on really but I’ve heard this as an explanation in the past), but doesn’t offer a lot of help to plus sized Flamboyant Gamines in the audience.  And since Flamboyant Gamine is the antithesis of what actually looks good on me, I don’t have a ton of examples from other pattern companies to include.  I probably should have gone surfing the internet for other pattern examples, but part of my personal conditions for writing this series was to draw styles from my own stash because otherwise I’d spend waaaaaaay too long on these posts.  Which I am as is, but I didn’t want to add to the exertion.  I’m really wondering if there might be a lot more options for plus sized Flamboyant Gamines in the indie sphere?  Definitely something to explore in upcoming Kibbe related posts that will look at other options for patterns and styles.

Also, the astute of you may have noticed that I am pulling styles form my own stash, which is partly why some styles show up a lot.  Though I think they also show up a lot because they work for many style ID recommendations.  And, yes, yes, the fact that I can pull this many styles for each type from my own stash is a bit insane.  Possibly speaks to the fact that I had absolutely no sense of personal style growing up.  And I sort of still don’t, which is why this series is so helpful to me.  Probably also speaks to the fact that I buy way to many patterns from sales at Jo-Ann when I also get Burda Magazine every month.  This series is sort of helping me curb that though.  Not the Burdas, but buying everything that looks cool.  I’m trying to narrow it to stuff that looks cool and works for me or my sister.  Baby steps, you know.  Baby steps.

Coming Next Week: We’re ready to move on to our second of the two Gamine subtypes next week.  This week we saw how adding a bit extra yang influenced the Gamine’s mix of yin and yang elements, so the contrast when we add a bit more yin should be very helpful for making comparisons within the realm of Gamine-ness.  Tune in next week when we explore Kibbe’s Soft Gamine!


27 thoughts on “Sew Your Kibbe: Flamboyant Gamine

  1. I find your Kibbe series really interesting but I’ve had a hard time figuring out what my type is despite taking the quizzes, etc. Have you found in your research whether this system really applies more or is intended more for caucasians? or rather that people of color have a harder time zeroing in on a type? I am Asian and to me (to be blunt) the descriptions seem geared more towards white people. I am really just curious and not intending to start anything. I get that nobody will fit exactly into his description but for example I have some characteristics of the flamboyant gamine type but the large eyes thing seems disqualifying, among other things.

    Liked by 5 people

    1. Thanks for your comment! I can definitely see why this system might come off as being geared towards caucasians, but I don’t think that is the case. Merriam Style and Aly Art have both done YouTube videos on the body types using non-caucasian celebrity examples, and they fall into many different categories. I think it’s important to remember that having “large eyes” doesn’t necessarily mean large relative to other people, but only relative to the other features of the person themself. I would think of this as being more of a “dominant” feature. For example, on myself I think the dominant feature on my face is my mouth. It is very large and very round. My eyes are fairly small in comparison. I have a lot of Asian friends, and I will say that while my eyes may be objectively larger, their eyes are the dominant feature on their face, so in that sense I would consider them “large” relative to the other features they have. It gives them a Gamine look that I definitely do not possess, despite the fact that, as a caucasian, my eyes are “larger” comparatively. (I hope this example does not come off as offensive; it is meant to be illustrative in regards to your specific question.) Gamines are such an interesting mix of features that I think it is hard to use any one thing to “disqualify” a person from this type, especially if they had many of the other characteristics. I think this may also be why it can be hard for Gamines to find their type, because they have such a mix of features they may not really feel like they fit anywhere. Looking through the descriptions, I think the only things that could really disqualify someone from being Flamboyant Gamine would be if they were extremely tall, extremely hourglass, and/or not having a mix of yin and yang components, thereby not having the Gamine base type. I hope that perspective helps!

      Liked by 5 people

  2. that is really helpful, thanks. i’m not offended at all. I am really enjoying the series and I don’t know if anybody else has done this but because I’m not sure what type I really am I like to go through the posts in reverse…to see what types of clothes I’m drawn to in the hopes that it might shed some light on my type. thanks for all the work you put in.

    Liked by 5 people

    1. That’s a great idea! I think most people are finding that they are drawn to a type or they find a type where they realize that all or most of the styles work really well for them. Since the ultimate goal is to find clothes that work, going backwards is totally a valid option. I think typing yourself is tricky (it took me over 6 months to realize I’d not typed myself correctly the first time), but narrowing down to a few IDs where the clothes really resonate can help. I find everything makes sense in hindsight, even though the journey to get there can be a bit challenging.

      Liked by 2 people

  3. Once again, I love all these, but they are not for me. It’s weirdly comforting to know that I don’t need to sew all the things, and the corollary to that is I don’t have to have all the patterns. At least that’s the theory. 🤔

    Liked by 3 people

  4. Yaaaaaaaaay! I’ve been waiting for this post, and I was not disappointed! Seriously, I think I pinned over 20 things. Ok, maybe 30. I recognised a lot of similar shapes and styles to things I’ve loved on myself in the past (and even some styles I liked 10 years ago that I wouldn’t necessarily wear now, but loved at one point). I don’t own a single one of the patterns you highlighted, but I do own some really similar shape – and I’m off for a shopping spree at Burda! Thank you for all the hard work you put into this!

    Liked by 3 people

  5. Definitely in the gamine camp! Thank you again for this wonderful series. Funny how by default I’ve always felt that I had to break long vertical lines or “contain” the fullness of some clothes or I would look dull, lIke disappearing… I’ve sewn many of these patterns (or alike), and repeated some more than once! An important inspiration for me are the Chanel collections by KL. So flamboyant gamine with the strong shoulders, lively trims, geometric details, and boxy cuts. Although I know I’m not a true FG, some elements I like to use to enliven my style. I guess I would never see patterns with the same eyes again…

    Liked by 3 people

  6. Yay, I love this style ID! It’s interesting how many of these I would wear, and that also appear in the dramatic classic type. I guess the difference is in how you combine the clothes for your overall look. I’ve realised over the years that I look best with a longer vertical line, and that colour blocks don’t suit me. So I can wear these shorter skirts and cropped trousers, but I need to keep similar depth of colour in my separated, or have something like a longer line cardie over the top to tie them together.

    Definitely seeking out a few of these patterns—some real gems! Thanks for all your hard work 😄

    Liked by 3 people

    1. Absolutely! Keeping the overall picture in mind can really help if you want to take a garment that isn’t quite “your type” and make it work in your outfit. Merriam Style just did an interesting video about casual looks for Dramatics and Naturals, and she emphasizes that it is the overall impression that is important, not each individual piece. (Otherwise Naturals can end up wearing baggy looking sacs, and nobody really looks that good if their clothes have absolutely no shape whatsoever.) I think that same theory applies here – if you love a Gamine pattern, you just have to figure out how to incorporate it in a non-Gamine way.

      Liked by 3 people

      1. LOL! That’s so awesome. You should go into the business of typing sexists since we have a unique perspective! Love to be typed by you…😉

        Liked by 1 person

      2. …Sewists? Autocorrect strikes again! 😆

        But we definitely do have a unique perspective and a unique opportunity to use these recommendations. I’ve been offering typing advice to others in the comments, but I’m definitely not expert enough to turn it into a business!

        Like

  7. So many of these patterns could be super cool in fancy fabrics, but could also be done in simple fabrics to create an amazing core wardrobe… Actually, come to think of it, ALL these styles you’ve posted could be fantastic inspiration for all the different Kibbes to create both daily and party wardrobes with clothes you could never find (or afford) in stores. Thank you so much for all this work! Such a pleasure to look at them all. ‘Course, I sorta have a fav with the Dramatic post… 😛

    I’ve looked EVERYWHERE for the pattern for that jacket up top, that has made numerous appearances – the Burda 7986 (that amazing Jacket pattern) I’ve tried Etsy, Ebay, and another site that sometimes has outdated patterns (can’t recall right now where that is), to no avail. If anyone comes across it, I’d love to buy it….. 🙂 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

  8. Ah, I’ve been eagerly anticipating the gamine subtype posts, and this did not dissapoint! I find myself nodding along with lots of the comments (and the responses), either from agreeing or appreciating. Like Gillian put into words so well I too am seeing so many silhouettes that I’m either drawn to, know I look good in, own, or have owned. It is kind of comforting – it feels like I am clearly on the right track. The post on soft gamines will be exciting to see. I couldn’t have a wardrobe exclusivly with garments in the flamboyant gamine style though, as I think I need some additional softness. Rounded collars seem a typical soft gamine detail, but looks awful on me, while some aspects from the natural style ID are great for me. You do such an excellent job at translating the discriptions, without being too narrow or exclusive (compared to other places on the web I have come across). I take my hat off to you! I’m going back to re-read this post now. 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

  9. Loving this series, deeply appreciative of your time and research prowess.

    As someone else also commented, I love the amazing designs, the silhouettes and the colour combinations. I would really enjoy creating some of these. And yet I cannot imagine ever wearing them. Clearly I am not a flamboyant gamine!

    Liked by 2 people

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