Pattern Review: BS 03-2012-108B

Normally it takes me a while to make anything out of my Burda magazines, but for some reason the March issue seemed to grab me and scream – make me right now!  Perhaps I wanted to get away from my sewing challenge for a bit, or maybe I just wanted some quick knit projects, or perhaps the combination of finding the perfect pattern for my stash fabrics made me super excited to get started.  In either case, this is the third item from the March Burda, and we aren’t even halfway through the month yet!  I wasn’t even planning to make this dress, but while I was tracing out the pieces for my other two tops I figured why not, so I was able to cut and sew this dress up last weekend as well.

Here is my version:

Front of my dress

Back – my seam added for fit didn’t come out exactly straight,
but I have adjusted the pattern so I won’t need that again in the future.

Another front view…

Love the twist-top!

And here is my official review:

Pattern Description: Twist top dress in two lengths, with full or partial lining, and side zipper.

Pattern Sizing:  Burda Tall sizes 72-88.  To find your Burda “tall” size, just double your regular Burda size.  I traced a size 80, grading out to 84 on the lower back skirt.  This was my first time using a non-standard Burda sized pattern, so I had to make a few more fit alterations than I am used to making (see alterations section).

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Super easy!  This is the special pattern with detailed instructions and picture diagrams – I mostly just looked at the pictures and not at the word instructions as much.  I don’t know why Burda think this is a difficult pattern – it was super simple to put together, especially with the picture diagrams.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it?  Yes!  I used a stripe so I could get the same effect as in the photograph, and the front looks very similar.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  Well, I love the style of the dress, and how the top looks in a striped fabric.  It was very easy to sew together, and very quick to make.  I wish it had been offered in regular sizes, the front is a bit low, and tracing and cutting out the front piece is a bit unwieldy because it is so large.  However, the complaints are minor, and overall I really do like this pattern.

Fabric used:  A metallic polyester knit from Hancock Fabrics.  This pattern is sized for wovens, but my knit was pretty stable, so I thought it worked out just fine.  Not to mention that I could get away with not using a zipper closure!

Pattern alterations or design changes you made:  Well, first let me say that because I sewed it in a knit, I did not use an invisible zipper closure.  All of my other alterations were for fit – I raised the under arm seam by 3/8″, I cut down the shoulder straps by 1″ on the front and back, and I took in the upper back by 1″.  Normally I don’t have such a problem with a gaping neck, so I assume this extra neck width is part of the tall drafting.  I didn’t muslin this project, so I had to include a center back seam on the upper bodice for this fit alteration.  As a side note – I didn’t alter the length of the skirt, so it is a bit longer on me than on the model, but I like it that way.  I also didn’t add hem allowance, just did a narrow hem, to prevent any extra length from being added.

Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?  Yes and yes!  Now that I have made my fit alterations to the pattern, I totally want to make this again – perhaps in a pretty cotton print.  With some sort of stripes, of course.  I highly recommend this pattern to others, though you might want to be cautious about the fit since this is a tall pattern.

Conclusion:  Great dress!  I think this pattern is great, and very easy to sew together.  Once any sizing or fit issues are worked out, this dress could be very flattering on a lot of people.  Love the style, and I am very pleased with my new dress.

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11 thoughts on “Pattern Review: BS 03-2012-108B

  1. I am about 5'7″, so I think you could pretty easily use the same adjustments I made (you might not even need to raise the underarms if you take length off the straps, I just always have problems with arms being too low and bras showing, so I preemptively adjusted them). You could also take some length from the skirt too – this is actually a very easy pattern to adjust because the pieces are simple, just really really big.

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  2. Popped over from your project photo on the Burda site. Love this dress – you did a great job and explained it well too 🙂

    I'm not sold on making it for myself because of the tall thing – I'm really short-waisted and already have issues with fit in length. That, and I don't really have the figure for this type of style 🙂

    Fantastic job!

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  3. When I say “stable knit” I mean that it is a knit fabric, but it is fairly thick and doesn't have a ton of stretch and when you do stretch it, it has very good recovery to its original shape. Some knits are very thin and when you stretch them out they tend to stay baggy and stretched out. This one held its shape very well and didn't get baggy or saggy because it is “stable.”

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  4. I came across this on Burdastyle – great job! This pattern is on my “to sew” list, and I love that you tried it in a knit – I'm going to do so too (so thrilled I can do away with the zipper!)

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