Sewing Challenge Update

Alright, so I thought I would post an update on the progress of things for my 2012 sewing challenge.  I finished the muslin for the Burda pants, and the fit was pretty good.  I have decided I don’t like the patch pockets – they are too stiff and make the pants pucker funny around my hips, which makes me look sort of wide.  So I decided that in the final version I was going to leave the pockets off and just have a simple grey pant.  Perhaps in the future I will add a different type of pocket, but for now I think the pocket-less style is most flattering since these are so fitted.  I am glad I took out the extra length in the leg – the length is nearly perfect now.  I also had to remove 1.5″ in the center back seam as part of a swayback adjustment, but other than that I really like the style of these pants.  And, actually the pocket-less version was very fast to sew up, so I now have finished pants!  But no pictures yet, so the review will be happening a bit later.

Pants muslin – with pockets
Side view
Back view
Pocket close-up

I am still debating if I am going to finish these and make the “wearable” (as in, add a hook to the waistband).  Not exactly a high barrier, but, well, I am lazy so it remains to be seen.

As for the raincoat, I am still at the muslin stage, as my first pattern choice was a bust!

Raincoat muslin – not a good fit
I think the back yolk is part of the problem

Usually I have a great fit right away with Burda, but with this muslin there were a lot of problems – the sleeves are too tight, the neck is to small, and despite the fact that the back is very billowy, it felt tight across the shoulder.  Now, I could go up a size, but I think there would still be a lot of fit problems to deal with.  I think that I don’t love this pattern enough to deal with the hassel of making all these changes.  Plus I have reconsidered the wisdom of attempting a set-in sleeve with the rubber-backed material, and I think to give myself a higher probability of success I might look for a raglan sleeve pattern instead.  I am still planning on making a hood though (detachable or otherwise).  At the moment I am debating between the following two patterns:

I would be making view A
Very similar style – I would have “fake” buttons and still use fabric covered snaps.
I do like that this one is a bit longer, though I could always add length to the first pattern.

In the mean time, I have done some experimenting with sewing, pressing, and water-proofing the seams on the rubber backed fabric.  I am happy to report that with the teflon presser sheet and seam-sealing tape, I think the results will turn out to be quite spectacular.

A look at the seam-sealant tape after application
(I should perhaps use a little less heat as it seemed to
make the fabric color bleed/transfer a bit too much)
After pouring water on the seam it still beads up and rolls off the fabric – success!

All in all I am quite pleased with the seam sealing tape.  This fabric doesn’t really press well (you can see in first picture that is does crease, but doesn’t stay folded), so I am thinking I may need to add topstitching to the pattern, in order to keep everything having a nice clean edge.  More updates about pattern selections and full review for my pants to come later!

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