I am super excited because at last I can show off my green wool coat! I have been working on this for the past few weeks and hours before the big event at the Coldest Arena in the World, the hemming was finished. I am pleased to report that it is both comfortable to wear and very warm. Although there are a few things I would have liked to tweak, overall I am quite pleased with the results. It could have used a final pressing before taking the photos, as the hem looks a bit wrinkly, but that is mostly a result of poor packing on my part, and a problem that will be fixable once I again have access to my iron. I used a mash up of some old BWOF magazine patterns, 01-2001-120 and 01-2001-121:
I used the collar from style 120, and the sleeves from style 121. I used my green wool from my visit to Yoder’s earlier this year. Here are some pictures of my finished project:
|Front of my coat.|
|Back of my coat.|
|Sleeve tab and button detail.|
|I thought my right sleeve looked pretty good!|
|Another lining shot. You can also see the inside stabilization buttons on the right.|
Other than the hem not looking super great in the photos, and a slightly wonky left sleeve cap (after setting it in six times I was over it), and a slight puckering on the left collar I am very pleased with the outcome. I did my fair share of ripping out stitches (I changed my mind about what color thread I wanted to use for topstitching) but all in all I really like my coat. I really love the wool color, lining fabric, and buttons together. And, despite my lack of alterations, overall the fit is quite wonderful and I have great mobility in my arm and shoulder area, which is often an issue in RTW. Here is my official review:
Pattern Description: Classic style caban coat/pea coat. I used a combination of two different style numbers. Style 120 has a traditional notched collar with cuffed sleeves. Style 121 has a hood and sleeves with sleeve tabs. I used the collar from style 120 and the sleeves from style 121.
Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 36-44. I made a size 40, which is my usual sizing for tops in Burda.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Actually they were for the most part. The bit for the collar was a little confusing, but not too hard to figure out. The part about finishing the vents was also a little confusing, and even after I did figure it out, using the instructions in Burda kept causing the vents to hang funny. I decided to finish the vent hems by hand instead.
Did it look like the photo/drawing when you were done with it? Yes, for the most part. I did use elements from two different style numbers, but overall I thought the coat looked very similar to the photos in the magazine.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really liked that the pattern has a very classic traditional look to it. I love the in seam pockets, and I like the sleeve tab detail. As always, I love the two piece Burda sleeve. The fit is amazing, right out of the magazine. I considered making the hood instead of the notched collar (looks much easier construction-wise), but I am glad I went with the traditional collar. I like the topstitching detail, although my machine had a bit of trouble topstitching over the thick sections on the collar. I was trying to use a thicker style to emphasize the topstitching, but my machine can only hand long straight stitches with regular thread. I don’t know that this is a dislike of the pattern, but I tend to prefer more fitted styles, and I found the back of this coat to be a bit boxy. This style has minimal back seaming, which combined with my swayback makes me wish I had done a bit more agressive swayback adjustment, and a bit more fitting in the back to avoid the boxy look. Overall though I have no major dislikes. Truly this is a great pattern.
Fabric used: Very thick felt-like green wool/nylon blend from Yoder’s in Shipshewana, IN. I used a poly print charmeuse from Joann’s for the lining, and I interlined with cotton flannel for added warmth. I also used muslin for back stay and sleeve cap interfacing, and fusible interfacing for the front, collar, sleeve tabs, and hem.
Pattern alterations or changes you made: I did make a minor (1/2″) swayback adjustment, but I should have made a slightly larger adjustment. Other than that I used the pattern as drafted for the shell. I used the information in “High Fashion Sewing Secrets” by Claire Shaeffer to draft interfacing patterns for the back, sleeves, and front shoulder areas, and to draft my own lining patterns. I also added sleeve heads as suggested in the book. Other than that I mostly followed the directions in the BWOF magazine.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I was considering sewing the version with the hood, but I think I would rather sew more fitted styles in the future. I have lots of other coat patterns I want to make, so I don’t know how soon I would make this style again. While I don’t think this is necessarily the best style coat for my body type, overall I am quite pleased with my coat – the fit is great and very comfortable, and because of the interlining it is quite warm and cozy. This is without a doubt the best quality coat I have ever owned, and I am sure I will enjoy it greatly this winter. I would definitely recommend this pattern to others – as with most of Burda’s patterns, the drafting is top notch. It is a great classic style and could be a great addition to any wardrobe.
Conclusion: Great pattern! I am so happy I was able to order this back issue of BWOF, and I am excited by the results of my coat. While the thick wool pushed the limits of my sewing machine, in the end the results were worth the effort and I am super pleased to have this coat in my wardrobe.